Gosha Rubchinskiy: AW16 Menswear
Save and survive. That was Gosha Rubchinskiy's show title - he wasn't thinking pessimistically, but rather quoting an old Russian saying. Not sure if it was about saving money to buy Gosha's gorg clothes (maybe), or about saving yourself. Probably.
Kolor: AW16 Menswear
Junichi Abe of Kolor is married to Chitose Abe of Sacai. They're a fashion power couple. That fact also illuminates Mr Abe's approach to fabric and cloth, which shares an affinity with his Mrs. The notion for autumn/winter 2026 was
Rick Owens: AW16 Menswear
A giant bubbly puffer coat like a vat of bubbling tar. A few melting Wicked Witch If The West shearlings slipping and sliding about the body. A bleached bit of denim that looks, we must admit, a bit like a
Issey Miyake Men: AW16 Menswear
Neonomad. The new traveller. We love travelling - mostly for air miles, which means we can travel even more. But travelling necessitates carting your couture about the globe, plus a few steamers and, if you're the permanently needle-heeled editor in
Raf Simons: AW16 Menswear
"Nightmares and Dreams" was Raf Simons' title for his autumn/winter 2016 show. We feel it was more of the latter than the former in the crunchy knits, the elephantine sweaters and cardies punctuated with Letterman typography and trailing beyond the
Haider Ackermann: AW16 Menswear
Lush velvet, glimmering sequins, and "flaccid pompadours" - Haider Ackermann's quote, not ours. Those were the components that made up his autumn/winter 2016 collection, filled with the sort of skimpy drainpipe trews and skinny tailoring Ackermann aficionados fall over each
Valentino: AW16 Menswear
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli seem a bit polished for travelling much. Then again, Mr Valentino himself voyaged pretty much constantly - admittedly between Gstaad, Tangiers, Paris and Rome, on a yacht or private jet. Travel isn't always hard
Giorgio Armani: AW16 Menswear
Giorgio Armani's shows are eminently wearable, the perfect contending of his message for the make wardrobe. Theme? Who cares about themes - how about some actual clothes you can actually wear, at any time and in pretty much any place?
DSquared2: AW16 Menswear
#mangapunk - that's not the title but the hashtag of the Dsquared2 winter show. Meaning you can click on it and see a bajillion multi-angle views of the multiple angles and looks of this show, where Dean and Dan crashed
MSGM: AW16 Menswear
The painting of Elizabeth Peyton mashed with the electroclash of Cassius. That was the theme of MSGM's autumn/winter 2016 collection, in itself a mixed-up mash-up of textures, colours, casual and formal. Massimo Giorgetti interpreted Peyton's sitters - her mix of
Gucci: AW16 Menswear
The winds of change are still a-blowin' at Gucci, where Alessandro Michele continues to breath new life into one of Italian fashion's oldest (and biggest) brands. The mix this time was once again masterful, a melange of eras and references
Diesel Black Gold: AW16 Menswear
The roots of Diesel are in utilitarian, youth-tinged sportswear. That's a massive emerging feeling for the autumn/winter 2016 collections across the board, so the label were well-placed to make an emphatic statement, and did just that. Andreas Melbostad riffed on
Emporio Armani: AW16 Menswear
A major focus on comfort. God, who doesn't want to hear that when they're reading about clothes? It was the thrust of Giorgio Armani's winter 2016 Emporio Armani collection, a pragmatic parade of functional leisure-formal hybrids in modern technology fabrics
Prada: AW16 Menswear
The stage was set: a plywood town square, an arena for spectacles, said Mrs Prada backstage. A place where all people gather together, to experience. A Prada show is always an experience. Something transporting and exceptional. This one, for Autumn/winter,