September 30, 2022 |
Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry has no interest in designing for the everyday. As so he proclaimed in the opening line of his spring/summer 23 show notes. He’s carved himself as a new household name thanks to his bonkers yet beautiful take on couture, but it’s his approach to ready-to-wear that should really pique your interest. “I believe that everyone who creates ready-to-wear must and should ask themselves why they’re making clothes at all; why the world needs another ready-to-wear collection,” he says.
He transfers the codes he uses to craft fashion in the highest form to elevate the art of the Schiaparelli woman getting dressed day-to-day. “Ready-to-wear may be beholden to certain practical considerations, but that doesn’t mean that the woman who wears it isn’t any less entitled to fantasy than those who buy couture.”
This season Roseberry was particularly inspired by a trip to Il Pellicano, the Italian resort in Porto Ercole, where he would study women as they would dress up to lounge beside the pool, before slipping into something even more glamorous of an evening. He proposed catsuits which dangle with his gold-plated bodyparts and dusts the buttocks of denim miniskirts in gold glitter. The woman’s form is elegantly painted onto swimsuits and liquidy silk evening gowns, and he elevates something as simple as a crisp cotton shirt with gold strands which trail across the shoulders as if lifted straight from Rapunzel’s head. Roseberry’s handwriting is at once witty, delightfully irreverent and profoundly gorgeous. He makes the extraordinary a desirable reality.
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
