September 7, 2023 |
Not many designers have a legacy quite like Ralph Lauren. Founding his eponymous brand in 1967, Lauren’s impact saddled up by starting with the humble tie, launching a neckwear line inspired by the glitz and glamour of Old Hollywood. Featuring what would later become his most recognisable symbol – the horse and polo player – Lauren then debuted his first full collection in 1968. Peppered with lightweight flannel suits and dress shirts, the New-York born entrepreneur cited a desire for “more romance” as his driving force and continued with that mantra for the years to come. Debuting his first full womenswear collection in 1972 and in turn spotlighting his unparalleled aptitude for androgynous tailoring, Lauren continued throughout the 70s and 80s perfecting his signatures, fusing his existing staples with a laidback equestrian design language. Fast forward to the late 90s and 00s and Lauren’s enduring zealousness for romantic tailoring swells once more. Models – equipped with flowing locks and a warm, glossy beauty palette – were sent down the runway in sheer high necks and sleek silk skirts, laying the land for minimalist mania that followed. With a heralded history like this, it’s no surprise that after announcing he would be returning to the runway for the first time since 2019 for this year’s New York Fashion Week, the industry stood to attention. Showcasing on September 8 in a yet-to-be-disclosed location, the collection is set to feature womenswear and will be one of the hottest tickets of the season, rivalling the anticipated debut of Peter Do’s Helmut Lang. To commemorate the big return, we’ve selected 10 of of our favourite Ralph Lauren looks across the Americana aficionado’s various NYFW catwalks.
1. NEW YORK CHIC
Our earliest look on the list is a class-A lesson in smart-casual styling. This look, taken from the Spring/Summer 1994 show, displays Lauren’s early adoption of denim to inject a casual air into his pieces. Pairing it with a baker boy hat, tucked-in tie and chunky gold-buckled belt, the denim elevates, fit for any off-duty 90s model.
2. THE RACHEL GREEN
Embodying the ultimate Rachel Green energy, this minimalist look is chic and tailored to perfection. Taken from his Autumn/Winter 1995 show, this dark-grey two piece shows smart can be sexy and nods to a lot of the understated glamour that peppers Lauren’s earliest collections.
3. THE POWER SUIT
Dogtooth? Don’t mind if we do! This stunning three–piece power play from AW95 is strong yet elegant with a shrewd attention to detail. Exaggerated lapels and the split back once again showcase Lauren’s aptitude for tailoring, with the black gloves and classic 90s high neck shaping the look with a sophisticated edge.
4. THE BELTED BEAUTY
Belt’s the word in this Spring/Summer 1997 look, worn by a fresh-faced Naomi Campbell. This swishing black two piece bares both leg and stomach, making it the perfect pair for a cool-girl’s summer uniform. Paired with an arm cuff and beaded belts, this look is equal parts bold and bohemian.
5. COQUETTE-CORE
This collection, from Spring/Summer 2003, shows a distinct shift in Lauren’s approach to designing. Moving away from the understated looks of the 90s, this collection is shaped on the undergarments of historical women, emphasising lace detailing, corsetry and silky skirts. Paired with a cameo choker, this look is a personal fave over here at 10 towers.
6. XOXO GOSSIP RALPH
XOXO, Ralph Lauren. Recognise this canary cascade? That’s because everyone’s favourite it-girl – Blake Lively’s Serena Van Der Woodsen – wore it to her mother’s wedding in Season 1 of CW’s Gossip Girl. With the show paying equal homage to the city of New York as Lauren himself, this was a match made in heaven, with this SS08 high-neck floral number being a showstopper in its own right.
7. A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN
Dresses over jeans might be coming back, but Ralph Lauren was one of the originators. This sheer, beaded midi is the perfect party piece and styling it with strappy heels and baggy jeans is nothing short of a stroke of genius. Glam, effortless and drop dead gorgeous, this navy-hued number from Spring/Summer 2010 deserved a spot on this list.
8. OUT WEST
This Spring/Summer 2011 look is the first of our picks to really show the equestrian influence that’s been strongly threaded throughout a large portion of Lauren’s designs. A fully leather look, the belt and jacket are distinctly cowboy-chic, with the lace-up detailing adding an alternative edge.
9. DARK ACADEMIA
This particular look, from Autumn/Winter 2016, draws directly from Ralph Lauren’s roots. Styled with a silky, knotted scarf – nodding to Lauren’s first ever piece – this two-time tartan co-ord recalls the fabrics used in the 1972 women’s collection, which featured a similar, more compact print. Paired with heeled leather brogues and a chunky bag, this look is autumn fashion done right.
10. THE GLAMOUR GIRL
It’s only right to pay homage to the mega-models that have been part of Lauren’s legacy. From Naomi to Bella, these strutting senoritas bring the clothes to life and this glittery red gown is no exception. A deep plunge and twisting center give this night-time number an air of opulence and was only of the final pieces Lauren sent down the runway at NYFW for his SS20 collection. Bring on September 8!
Top Image: Photography by Bruce Weber, taken from 10 Magazine Issue 35 – FASHION GODS ABOUT THEIR WOMEN. Additional photography courtesy of Ralph Lauren.
