February 11, 2020 |
Once upon a time the young, cool kids of NYFW, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are now one of the commercial anchors of the American fashion capital. That’s not to say they lost their cool. In fact, they’re finding power in more streamlined silhouettes which still carry a sense of youthful playfulness they originally won over the world with. Off-the-shoulder was their look for AW20, with dresses, coats and tops revealing the erogenous zone in a multitude of ways.
By playing with asymmetry in their signature techniques of slashing and cinching McCollough & Hernandez created new forms out of familiar dress codes. A line-up of powerful outerwear worn by the likes of Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber and Doutzen Kroes didn’t feel retro at all, despite the wide shoulder-pads, double-breasted fastening and monochromatic colours. In fact, what Proenza Schouler always offers is a positive outlook on the gloomy future. This woman lives through the harsh reality of the world, but roots her lifestyle in optimism. It’s a lifestyle that allows her to wear a metal mesh spaghetti-strap dress and wrap herself in a massive satin blanket instead of a jacket. Perhaps at their most constrained yet, this all-American duo proved that, despite the world’s idea of cool shifting constantly, they’re more than capable of catching up.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.
