May 19, 2025 |
Pierpaolo Piccioli is headed to Balenciaga.
The famed couturier, who spent over two decades at Valentino, will take the helm of the Paris house. He will succeed Demna who is exiting the house for Gucci after his final Balenciaga couture collection in July. Piccioli is expected to show is first collection for Balenciaga during the shows in Paris this October.
In a statement, Piccioli wrote: “Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy and archive is probably one of the most influential fashion statements of all time. He has done everything before everyone; he has literally invented the culture of creativity; he has infused the idea of couture in every aspect of his career, and he has shown, through his creations, the power of evolution and innovation. What I am receiving today is a brand full of possibilities that is incredibly fascinating.”
Piccioli was named co-creative director of Valentino alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2008. The pair had worked at Fendi together for 10 years before joining Valentino in 1999. First appointed by Mr Valentino Garavani to expand the maison’s accessories department, they would take charge of the brand less than a decade later, bringing a youthful, energetic spin to Valentino’s ready-to-wear.
When Grazia Chirui joined Dior in 2016, Piccioli would continue at the helm alone. In the years that followed, the designer would establish himself as one of fashion’s greatest colourists and would establish the brand as one of luxury’s most inclusive players. Thanks to Piccioli, during his time at Valentino, haute couture found new relevancy in a younger audience. Fashion’s most elitist arm, in Piccioli’s hands, became a place of celebration for humanity on a broader scale. His SS22 couture collection was famously cast on a variety of models of different sizes and ages, while he was one of the first designers to bring men’s couture to the runway in 2021. In March of last year, he exited the house, with rumours swirling as to where the design maestro would be headed next.
Francesca Bellettini, Kering deputy CEO in charge of brand development, writes: “I couldn’t be happier to welcome Pierpaolo to the Group. He is one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today. His mastery of Haute Couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the House. I would also like to sincerely thank Demna for the bold, distinctive vision he brought to Balenciaga over the past ten years, shaping the House’s identity in the contemporary era. I am convinced that Pierpaolo and Gianfranco [Gianangeli, Balenciaga CEO] will lead Balenciaga perfectly through this important new chapter of its remarkable history.”
Succeeding the house from Demna, who during his tenure redefined Balenciaga’s aesthetic with his signature blend of irony, subversion and cultural commentary, Piccioli and the designer share a romanticism for the art of couture (in 2021, Demna revitalised Balenciaga’s couture arm, showing one couture collection each year since). In an open letter, Piccioli expressed his respect for the designer. “I’ve always admired his talent and vision. I couldn’t ask for a better passing of the torch. He paid homage to Cristóbal in his own way, sharing his point of view while maintaining the House’s core identity alive. This gives me the chance to shape a new version of the maison, adding another chapter with a new story. My chapter of the House of Balenciaga.”
Massive congratulations Pierpaolo! We can’t wait to see your vision for Balenciaga unfold.
Photography by David Sims.
