September 15, 2022 |
One year ago, Peter Do made his triumphant catwalk debut at NYFW. But for SS23, following three years spent producing exclusively womenswear, the Vietnamese-American designer is – alas! – adding men’s goodies to his offering.
As the 60-looks-strong show unfolded, Do managed to maintain a minimalistic treatment whilst also bringing dramatic, exaggerated silhouettes and extremely androgynous sartorial audacity to the table; crisp woollen tailoring formed a gigantic black blazer with white contrast stitching; billowing deconstructed trousers had sharp slits revealling their inner workings extending from the high-thigh all the way to the ankle; visible nipples peaked out from underneath liquid mesh tanks and trousers; swollen shirts and double breasted blazers boasted large triangular cutouts on the upper back, exposing a flash of chiselled muscles and turning heads as Do’s troupe passed by.
Stomping across the catwalk, Seulgi, who fronts the South Korean K-pop group Red Velvet, sported a form-fitted cardigan tucked into a mini skirt that showcased her long legs. NCT Dream icon Lee Jeno walked too – his brows coated in blue, red and silver glitter and with studded, square-toe boots cropping up from under suave leather coats.
The two-or three-in-one versatility that’s always played an imperative role in defining Do’s unambiguous aesthetic also arrived, delivered in the form of knits with button-up sleeves that doubled as ponchos when undone and pleated skirts attached to belts that could be opened and closed like highfalutin curtains. What was especially enthralling was how, in an effort key to achieving climate consciousness, a vest and trousers in a patent leather-like material were actually made out of discarded shrimp exoskeletons – we hope you like shellfish! For him, for her, for them, for Mother Earth – Peter Do is boundless.
Photography courtesy of Peter Do.
