Following the tragic death of his father last year, Nicomede Talavera was able to create “one of the most inspiring collections that I’ve ever produced,” says the designer. His AW22 outing, released back in March, was a love letter to his late father’s wardrobe and was the first time he translated his Filipino heritage into his work.
He describes it as a “natural process” to continue his personal exploration through his SS23 offering, built on the vivid memories of growing up in the Philippines. “I began thinking if I can’t go to the Philippines and see it, and in order to start discovering where I am from and what my culture is all about, I need to approach it from a memory perspective,” he says.
The natural way of life and being so open to the Earth’s elements in the Philippines guided Talavera’s design hand this season, taking sunset hues to decorate geometric prints plastered across shirts and strong coats. The brand’s signature ballooned bomber jackets – borrowing their shape from 1950s couture techniques – are joined by beaded sleeveless tops which form traditional Banig mat checked patterns and a sensual shirt that nods to a Filipino Camisa blouse, fashioned from seersucker and elegantly draped off the shoulder.
“I believe this is the honest and truthful way of me working, but then also taking a real spin on [approaching my Filipino heritage],” says the designer. “It bring me a lot of joy because the Philippines is a forever inspiration, there is so much story, attire, and Filipino spirit to embrace.”
Photography by Takahito and Jennifer Sasaki.