The Marni woman was curvy. To clarify: she wasn’t, she was normal model size, but her clothes were. Curvy clothes. Now that’s a concept. Allow us to explain – think: the curves of the New Look – nipped waist, flaring at the hips – but amplified, sitting away from the model’s bodies. That shape ran throughout the collection, across dresses and jackets, or bodice-like tops that became an protective outer layer. Risso said, via the release that this was “a multitude of women, surfing through a multitude of worlds, they scavenge into trunks full of objects, finding items that belong to different individuals and carry different stories.” In practice – a cacophony of prints – from wallpaper florals, crouching women, painterly checks – slices of coloured and animal-print fur, dollops of embellishment, patchwork pleated skirts, all mixed up in a “bizarre cocktail” (Risso’s words) – fat wellington boots, giant polo shirts, furry courts, wide-leg brocade pants. These aren’t clothes for the lazy – but strip it all back, and there’s plenty to keep the Marni woman satisfied here.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans