The introductory overture of Debussy‘s ‘Clair de Lune’ was the first sound to reverberate through the black box room at Marine Serre’s SS24 show. Evolving over the course of 15 minutes into a sonic journey through the history of electronic dance music, the reinterpreted soundtrack was produced by Pierre Rousseau. All jamming together, an eclectic group of models and eleven musical artists moved and grooved to the generative music including Teyana Taylor, Miguel, Aron Piper, Sevdaliza, Noah Cyrus, Yseult, Brooke Candy, Anetha, Pink Siifu, John Glacier and Aime Simone. Marine Serre called the pulsing collection Heartbeat, begging the question: What makes your heart beat, if not people?
The show opened like a Midsommar rave with folksy prints bringing a touch of home sentiment to the sesh. Dresses were crafted from pleated scarves and upcycled tee shirts. Crochet cardigans and cropped tops superseded a remarkable couture dress that was meticulously crafted from second-hand granny-square blankets. Then a slew of grey-wash upcycled camo cargos, cropped jackets and skirts rocked up, solidifying the assortment’s standing as a megamix of upcycled and deadstock materials.
Inspired by balmy Hawaiian nights, hibiscus prints and visions of idyllic vacations came next, delicately draped into unisex skirts and revealing cut-out dresses. Remixed versions of Serre’s iconic blue jeans joined in, adorned on the busts and backsides by three-dimensional moons: think five-pocket styles, mini-skirts, boxy vests and short dresses with twisted seams or layers so robust they resembled mediaeval armour.
Speaking of armour, metal-free silver leather blousons, micro-mini skirts, low-waisted trousers and an elongated moto jacket were illuminated by blinding flashes of LED lighting. And, sending subtle shivers down the spine, glossy black dresses were draped over crescent moon catsuits.
The show transitioned from a gentle, homegrown jamboree to a vacation, to an impromptu night out and into a red carpet ball before mutating through to an ecstatic afterparty. Miguel closed the show in an elegant brocade silk co-ord, slinky in silhouette yet expertly tailored.
Photography courtesy of Marine Serre.