March 1, 2018 |
John Galliano was flipping it and reversing it for Maison Margiela Autumn/ Winter 18. “Dressing in reverse,” he called it. Expect the unexpected. Although we always do when it comes to Margiela. It’s been thirty years since Martin Margiela started his label but instead of looking back, Galliano was in full throttle, looking forward. This was future for now. It was chunky, sporty, layered up. We wanted all of it. A mini royal blue dress morphed into part of a black waistcoat covered by a woollen coat, floating up high in space on those chunky cushioned sneakers. Puffa jackets became accessories. They’re evolving. Plastic PVC raincoats with flashes of yellow were worn over dresses, all that drama so cleverly contrasted to mini handbags. Camel coloured coats were draped in sheer blue chiffon, girls were hooded, and matte lips spiralled it all into another universe. It’s the little things.
The recent Couture show’s metallic rainbow sheen strobing fabulousness was infused into this collection on skirts paired with knitted vests. Toned down. Codes of the rodeo were handled lightly as fringing fell across the back of jackets. Urban cowgirls in space? Something like that. Asymmetric cream Aran sweaters fell away, all deconstructed but still solid and secured in those thick leather harnesses bandaged over coats. The bubbly sound of Apple’s Skype application popped us into the Margiela world and the bluegrassy tones of Charlie Daniels’ The Devil Went Down to Georgia had us thinking of a Parisian Horror Story. But perhaps the best part was the Saints Go Marching In, techno remixed for these women in astronatut-hockey soft helmets, their anthem. These are our Saints marching in Margiela. Praise them.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans
