September 28, 2024 |
Loewe designer Jonathan Anderson had cultural giants on his mind. Mozart, Bach, Chopin, Van Gough: rockstar artists, of such global renown, replayed or reproduced to such an extent that they are part of the furniture of life. Anderson paid tribute in the form of museum merch-style T-shirts featuring their portraits or work. The double-take catch? They weren’t T-shirts at all but entirely made from printed feathers. Anderson’s striking ability to challenge the eye has made him the designer of the moment (that and his brilliant curation of talents for the brand – Daniel Craig in the latest campaign? Genius!)
The designer who is celebrating a decade at the house, sought to add an element of look-at-me strangeness into every piece. Chiffon light floral dresses were distorted by bouncing crinolines and wired hems. Coats and rain macs also had springy wired hems and collars (which are definitely a thing – see also Prada and Yohji Yamamoto) making them look like they’d been caught by a strong gust of wind. Elsewhere the designer played with proportions – tailored ultra-baggy pinstriped trousers almost looked like they were melting. Anderson seemed to be urging his audience (Daniel Craig, Pharrell Williams, Greta Lee, Taylor Russell, Josh O’Connor Jeff Goldblum) to look again. Even the shoes – Max Wall-style lace ups, had elongated toes. It was playful and strange, but strangely appealing.
Photography courtesy of Loewe.
