July 9, 2017 |
At the foot of a brutalist block of flats in west London known as Trellick Tower lies Rellik – a vintage shop. Or rather the vintage shop. Kim Jones’s favourite clothing store and a treasure trove of fashion, it was founded almost two decades ago by Steven Phillip and his friends Claire Stansfield and Fiona Stuart, who’d all been running their own stalls on Portobello Road. With pieces by Azzedine Alaïa and Vivienne Westwood hanging from its rails, the shop is a full of fashion royalty and has seen style icons including Iris Apfel and Isabella Blow pass through its doors. For Phillip, who hails from Dundee, it’s Westwood and British designers like her (including, of course, Jones) who hold a particularly special place in his heart – so much so that he’s built an archive of their creations. He’s a master collector and a collector of masters.
Ted Stansfield: How would you define yourself?
Steven Phillip: “Honest, reliable, curious. I’ve got a thirst for knowledge and travel and I like to laugh at life. When it comes to fashion I’m passionate and enthusiastic.”
TS: What was your first break?
SP: “Soon after moving to London from Dundee in the late ’80s with my dear friend Billy Mackenzie, who was in the music business at the time, I started meeting a lot of music and fashion people who inspired me to open my first fashion stall at Portobello Market. This was at a time when fashion was really exciting and eclectic, and Portobello was buzzing with a lot of interesting ideas and creative people.”
TS: What accomplishment are you most proud of?
SP: “Starting Rellik with my two business partners, Claire Stansfield and Fiona Stuart, in 1999. I’m very proud that it has grown to become one of the most respected and well-known vintage boutiques in the fashion industry. I’m also very proud of building my personal archive collections of the best of British designers.”
TS: Your most memorable customers?
SP: “Three wonderful and unique women – Yoko Ono, Iris Apfel and Isabella Blow.”
TS: What has been your greatest find?
SP: “There are far too many to mention, but I always get very excited about finding early John Galliano pieces.”
TS: What does Louis Vuitton represent to you as a brand?
SP: “Luxury. Quality. Travel. Iconic, timeless pieces with beautiful finishes.”
TS: What do you think Kim Jones brings to fashion?
SP: “Kim’s creative genius is his ability to mix his diverse range of passions and influences together so successfully in his work. With his amazing attention to detail and quality, he’s able to blend ’80s club culture, world travel and street fashion to create his stunning luxury collections. Detail is everything to Kim.”
TS: How would you define punk?
SP: “An exciting, explosive, energetic, creative, chaotic, ‘fuck you!’ state of mind. No rules. No limits. No boundaries. Self-expression.”
TS: Who’s your ultimate style icon?
SP: “Leigh Bowery. The first time I saw him in London, I was blown away. I’d never seen anyone like him before. He never conformed to anyone’s idea of normal and constantly pushed the boundaries of style with his incredible designs. Whenever you saw him, day or night, Leigh was always a totally unique vision.”
TS: What’s your “dress to impress” look?
SP: “If it’s a party, I have been known to wear an all-in-one Jean Paul Gaultier with 2,000 sequins and matching eye make- up. If it’s an event, usually a black tux jacket and a pair of Westwood cuban heels – I have more than 20 pairs, in various colours. And of course a Louis bag.”
TS: Style is…
SP: “I think Orson Welles’s quote is spot on – ‘Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say and not giving a damn.’”
TS: What’s the craziest rumour you’ve heard about yourself?
SP: “That I own absolutely everything that was ever designed in the ’80s – not true!”
TS: Champagne or a healthy juice?
SP:“No thanks, I’ll have a brandy please.”
Stay tuned for the rest of the 10…
Text by Ted Stansfield
Photographer Kim Jakobsen To
Taken from 10 People To Meet in the latest issue of 10 Men FLUID UNIQUE BRAVE, on newsstands now…
relliklondon.co.uk/louisvuitton.com
