February 10, 2025 |
Three weeks ago David Lynch passed away, leaving behind a cinematic legacy that has long fascinated the fashion world. It’s a timely coincidence then, that for Khaite’s autumn/winter 2025 collection Catherine Holstein drew from his films to inform her show. Upon entering the Park Avenue Armory, you were plunged into darkness before being seated in a large circle. Above, dramatic spotlights created a haunting effect created by architect Griffin Frazen. It served as the perfect moody setting for a Lynchian ode with the design inspired by both The Wizard of Oz (Lynch’s favourite film) as well as Wild at Heart.
As for the clothes themselves, Holstein asked “What if David Lynch remade a Merchant Ivory movie?” The answer was evident from the opening looks: Remixing period dressing like bustle dresses and tailoring in a way befitting the modern woman. To start, a leather corset, worn with matching elbow length gloves over a pair of jeans, a juxtaposition that felt both fresh and slightly unsettling in a very Lynchian way. From there the looks segued into classics that the Khaite customer has come to love like tissue paper thin knits, oversized trenches, and trousers with the correct amount of slouch.
Holstein is a minimalist at heart, with a neutral palette of whites, greys, navy, and black. But a Lynchian ode calls for red and she delivered, with a handful of oxblood pieces. Leopard print also made a strong showing. From matching skirt suits to slinky trousers to a corset to a dramatic long coat, expect them to be popular among her devotees. One surprise buried among the looks were the smattering of colourful argyle knits, worn tucked into trousers and peeking out from jackets. And speaking of knits, a Khaite staple, there were plenty to choose from. A wispy henley tucked into a chunky white skirt was a strong combination while the camel cashmere turtleneck is guaranteed to be a top seller. Though if we had to choose, the head-to-toe swaddle would be the choice of the evening, especially given the weather. As guests left it started to snow, making the case that you can indeed walk off the runway into reality with these looks.
Photography courtesy of Khaite.
