March 5, 2016 |
The signature micro accordion pleats of Issey Miyake have been quite spectacularly revived of late. Meaning many designers have references them – some subtly, some blatantly – in their own collections. That poses a challenge for Yoshiyuki Miyamae: how to satisfy the faithful, but not fall into the trap of predictability? His winter Miyake show was packed with pleats, but they ran widely through themes, in multi-colours, then black, then glorious red in a giant balloons cape. A bit Gary Oldman in Bram Stoker’s Dracula that; or maybe that moment when the lift doors open in The Shining and the blood explodes out. Although it was chic rather than scary.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans