SS23 marked a new era for Etro, with the debut of creative director, Marco De Vincenzo. The designer is a certified talent (his side-gig is designing accessories for Fendi) and proved it by deftly steering Etro in a fresh, more youthful direction without losing the bohemian spirit of wanderlust and luxury on which the house is built.
He opened with dazzling denim brocades featuring images of flowers, birds and exotic fruit. The fabric was sumptuous and very Etro whilst the silhouettes spoke to today. There were wide-legged low-cut jeans worn with matching bra tops, as well as denim hot pants, mini-dresses and a sweeping cape.
De Vincenzo has always been a whizz at knitwear and his Etro knits looked very appealing with degradé rainbow stripes. Those stripes appeared also on crisp shirting that has become a signature of the house.
The Etro woman loves embellishment, and de Vincenzo didn’t hold back with golden appliqués on lace dresses and capes. By keeping the silhouettes clean and uncluttered – micro or macro – he ensured it felt lavish and luxurious but never over complicated. Add his knack with accessories (high-heeled Aladdin clogs, brocade thighs boots, bags made from archive fabrics) and you have a debut to remember.
Photography courtesy of Etro.