February 24, 2023 |
Marco De Vincenzo is reshaping Etro into something both old-fashioned and innovative, reinforcing its identity and coming to terms with the historic Milanese maison’s storied roots. The more he digs, the more clear the dialogue with what Etro really is becomes.
Marching through an historic palazzo unmade into a construction zone – a physical manifestation of De Vincenzo’s radical exploration of the atelier – all the usual Etro fixings appeared at the AW23 show. Tartans, paisley and cravatteria motifs covered long flowing dresses and flouncy, frilled little numbers were paired with drooping, chunky argyle knits. Elsewhere genderless vests and matching trousers were percolated by billowing silk blouses. Opulent tailoring in beautiful brocards, slim pantsuits with elongated tailcoats and knit midi dresses swathed by checkered blankets were worn atop aladdin clogs that had been transformed into thigh-high boots and platform mary janes. Included in the collection came a triage of “Kind Knits”, striped jumpers that are part of a new, and expansive, see-now-buy-now upcycled capsule. This was a whole new kind of retro cool.
Photography courtesy of Etro. Shop Etro ‘Kind Knits’ here.
