February 20, 2018 |
A morning at the museum. Erdem shut the National Portrait Gallery down to show off his AW18 collection. Into the Jazz age he dived, the books on seats revealing photographs of Nancy Cunard and Adele Astaire. Ultimate muses of the ‘30s. Nancy, so upper class, cigarette holder in one hand and drink in the other. Yes, she looked good but she used her voice, fighting as a political activist against racism and fascism. And Adele Astaire, rebellious in her own way, another independent, significant woman of the 1930s. And so this was a collection for fabulous women who dress damn well and fight for their rights. That sense of fearlessness that is so prominent right now.
They walked, all knowing and in command. Black polka dotted veils added a mystery that continued throughout the collection in the gloves and high socks, reminiscent of the bold black and white polka dots that Nancy sat in front of for Cecil Beaton (also in the book). Floral patterns adorned satin coats, drop waist ‘30s style slips and tailored tweed check were made for women on the move. A suspense drifted through the gallery, accelerating violins felt so thrilling. This woman was composed, a serenity in the flow of the sheer chiffon floral dresses that moved with ease. We do like Erdem when he is riffing on the Aristos, all that grace and charm.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans
