September 12, 2023 |
For spring/summer 2024, Dion Lee ditched the club, opting instead, for a… building site? Staging his New York Fashion Week runway at 10pm on Saturday evening, the Australian designer fused his usual club-centric design language with a rave-infused vision of modernist workwear – innovative. Peppered with both overt and subtle indicators – with Lee sending models down the runway with wrenches stitched onto shirts and tool belts slung from hips – the shift in direction confirmed the unisex designer’s desire to embrace utilitarian themes.
Intimidating, innovative and absolutely captivating, blazers with a healthy spattering of studded pockets, knee-high leather stompers and oversized denim dungarees offered a vision of a workplace that’s subversive, sexy and effortlessly cool. Never straying too far from Lee’s roots, sheer pieces were constructed in crimson lace – cut outs and all – in a nod to his previous collections which were built from provocative, belly-baring, sexy silhouettes. Heavy chain chokers and lingerie-infused looks also undercut the collection with that element of grit and fashion-infused fetish we’ve come to love Lee for.
As if the models were cosplaying the kind of clubbers who would tell you to fuck off if you ask for a lighter in the smoking area, makeup lead Marcelo Gutierrez incorporated iridescent tones into abrasive, but mostly bare-faced beauty looks to push the vision of “AI meets New York nightlife”. Drawing on the talents of other upcoming designers, Lee also partnered with cult-favourite Ancuta Sarca to create silver-buckled heels and shin-topping boots made from the creative’s past deadstock garments.
Despite the more hard-edged parts of the presentation, Lee seemed to make light of his own theme, sending one model down the runway with an orange cord wrapped and slung over his shoulder – talk about stating the obvious. Culminating with a series of looks with increasingly elegant silhouettes – a sheer, halter neck maxi was a personal highlight – Lee showed his versatility and skill as both a creative visionary and a designer.
Speaking on his inspirations, Lee noted “This season was primarily about evolving the utility and construction language I’ve been playing with until now,” citing the industrial elements of his shops in Miami and Melbourne as his tangible source of inspiration. With the goal being to create an “exaggerated brand wardrobe”, it’s safe to say the Sydney native has very much succeeded. In celebration of a collection well done, the show concluded with a performance by Ice Spice at the top of The Standard High Line.
Photography courtesy of Dion Lee.
