February 19, 2023 |
Marlene Dietrich was on David Koma’s mind whilst the designer pieced together his ferocious AW23 collection. This season, there was an androgynous sexuality to his meaty-shouldered tailoring and mannish coats, shirts and ties, worn with wipe-clean latex trousers and ruffled. asymmetric skirts with dangerously high slits. As models stalked a crimson room on the 11th floor of an East London office block, some came carrying bedazzled cigarettes courtesy of jewellery designer Emily Frances Barrett. It was a total collision of masc and hyper-femme, as Koma sent out upcyled biker jackets, crystal-strewn evening gowns and chain mail frocks dotted with patent leather flowers hand cut in Koma’s studio.
Add in a fierce palette of lipstick red, sorbet yellow, lilac and black, and you have an ideal uniform to entice your inner vixen. Beware: she bites.
Photography courtesy of David Koma.
