With moss-covered porcelain urinals standing in the middle of a car park, twelve floors underground, the mood for the night was clearly set. We could have been in one of the dark alleys of the deep East End and it wouldn’t make too much of a difference. The only difference is – this is London Fashion Week Men’s, and we’re sat next to Mister Tim Blanks at the Cottweiler AW19 show.
Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty, the designers behind the British brand, finished off day two of the shows with an erotic bang. Inspired by the “lost art of cruising”, the duo decided to push the limits of modern masculinity and the dress codes that come with it. And how better to do it than with traditional sports uniforms, now used in a subversive way. Cricketers and golfers, hunters and even dog-walkers. The sex-appeal of the Cottweiler boys came from the formality in sportswear – the pin-tucks and particular hemlines, as well as the accessories completing the full look. A trainer-loafer hybrid, designed in a collaboration with Reebok, was an instant hit – playing the mid-field between a chunky sole and a sleek, dad-friendly shoe-shape. And despite their absolute dedication to pushing fashion forward, Cottweiler is one of the rare few brands that create sportswear which actually looks like it’s made for action. But what exactly that action is, and where you decide to practice it – it’s totally up to you. The court, the field, the dark room – wherever it is, you’ll definitely be on the best-dressed list.
Photography by Jason Lloyd Evans.