Eighteenth century punks - in pink - were the inspiration for Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons this time around. They were both inspired and inspiring, with outfits piled up with panniers and frills and rococo floral patterns, ruffled and flounced to within

Vivienne Westwood called her latest collection “Sexercise.” Yikes! But actually, it wasn’t Westwood herself - she’s now handed the reins of the business over to her supremely talented husband Andreas Kronthaler, her parter for almost three decades in life and

Gorgeous gypsies and rock-star chic. These were the driving forces behind Elie Saab, a collection of signature lace and foliate colours reworked for an utterly contemporary woman. Music pumped out live as the models took their turns, like a terribly

Bobby Vinton once crooned about someone wearing blue velvet - and while we didn’t spot any blue in Haider Ackermann’s winter show, this fuzzy-wuzzy offering had pretty much every other colour velour under the sun. Maybe Ackermann was attracted to

“Hyper Construction Dress” was the theme of the Junya Watanabe show, with models dressed in kooky cloth constructions and an origami how-to pamphlet the invite. Folding, pleating, wrapping and constructing dresses was all par for the course: Watanabe is a

Gird ye loins Tenners and prepare thineselves - Dame Viv will show her first collection under her Gold Label's brand new guise today - Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. At 3pm GMT. And, generous as ever, we are handing it to you on a

The mood of late seventies Paris is infectious right now - maybe because it harks back to a time of unbridled hedonism never since seen, and an exciting, bubbling-up fashion scene. Isabel Marant referenced the era in her latest show,

Yohji Yamamoto didn't title his collection "Subtraction", but it was the one word he offered afterwards, backstage, to describe his clothes. You could see a few subtraction a in the show, or lapels being sliced off coats, sometimes of the

Perfect day. It played on the soundtrack, and was printed across the backs of Jun Takahashi's Undercover collection. What makes a perfect day? Puffy prom dresses cross-bred with perfecto jackets, crowned with golden branches. Who knows what’s on? Not us.

The signature micro accordion pleats of Issey Miyake have been quite spectacularly revived of late. Meaning many designers have references them - some subtly, some blatantly - in their own collections. That poses a challenge for Yoshiyuki Miyamae: how to

"Teutonic" was Hussein Chalayan's title for his winter 2016 collection. It fits the rigorous nature of Chalayan's aesthetic - German techno, Burda patterns, Autobahns, a bit of Kraftwerk. Chalayan's clothes are generally strict and sharp, decidedly Teutonic in themselves, even

Christian Dior has something very few houses can boast of: immediately-recognisable, eternally distinguishable house codes. Femininity, flowers, the curvaceous Bar silhouette of padded hips, emphasised bust and cinched waist. Those were the ideas Dior team, lead by Serge Ruffieux and

We all want to be cool, right? That's the choice world Jonathan Anderson used to describe his winter Loewe collection. Cool for cats - like the pendants hung around models' necks, resemble the porcelain good luck charm waving breed in

It must be wonderful being an Ann Demeulemeester girl. We imagine it’s a bit like like that scene in Spice World, where Victoria “Posh Spice” Adams (now obvs Beckham) questions if she’s going to wear the little black Gucci dress,