September 23, 2025 |
Were we backstage at Glastonbury? Daniel Lee channelled festival vibes for his Burberry show, laying a sawdust catwalk under an open-sided tent in Perks Field, Hyde Park, its ceiling painted with a perfect blue sky. Was that a metaphor for the uptick in Burberry’s fortunes under new CEO Joshua Schulman? The share price is flying high and confidence around the brand is back. Lee matched that on his runway with rock ‘n’ roll swagger. Blasting Black Sabbath on the soundtrack (a favourite of his father), the designer pressed shuffle on his favourite music eras sending out clothes that twanged with rockstar attitude. “I think musicians have always been the best in terms of style,” Lee said. “From festivals and stadiums to open-air concerts, every summer the UK comes to life with style and sound.”
Edie Campbell playing a sharp-suited Mod – all sharp cheekbones and prowling menace – announced a consequential shift in silhouette towards skinny tailoring. The time is right said Lee who cleverly anticipated the Sam Mendes-directed The Beatles movie in the works with lean tailored looks. These were worn with neat, narrow, knee-length trench coats in a plethora of finishes from buttery soft jewel-toned leather to snake print and a specially developed wax-coated denim. Beige? Not today. This was a walk on a wilder side for the traditional British brand.
The Sixties and Seventies references came thick and fast. Girls wore little macrame mini dresses under fringed leather coats and sturdy boots or macrame hemmed kick flares under narrow trenches (based on archival designs). There was a decadence to it which came, not just from the styling but the level of craft Lee injected into the looks. Whipstitched leather jackets burst at the seams with lavish leather fringing, trenches came with macrame inserts, or in vividly printed silk. There were plenty of party dresses in hand-made macrame, leather crochet, mirrored tiles. One was made entirely from glistening pink beads whilst a chainmail mini kilt and matching top came emblazoned with the house’s signature check.
Christopher Bailey used to show in a tent in this very field, and Lee’s focus on trenches echoed his predecessor’s diligent focus on elevated but wearable pieces. Lee’s vibe is more edgy, less whimsical but has a distinct pull.
Accessories count here and with scarf bars driving sales in store, Lee served up a long, skinny crochet version for summer. A lavishly fringed bag and sturdy boots completed the look.
Lee was cheered on by Elton John, Raye, Central Cee, Maya Jama, Joanna Lumley and Jennifer Saunders – a very British cocktail of national treasures, audacious talents and hotties. Very Burberry too.
Photography courtesy of Burberry.
