Thu 29th February
With his combination of architectural silhouettes and inclusive casting, Olivier Rousteing always brings drama to the catwalk. AW24 was no different as he sent out a collection full of sculptural shapes and angular tailoring on a diverse cast of models, many of whom were over forty.
“Beauty has no age, beauty has no boundaries” said the designer of his show which was inspired by his home town, the house founder Pierre Balmain and his interpretation of the timeless elegance of France.”
“Welcome to the Balmain picnic” he said backstage. Pointing out the grapes of Bordeaux motifs he’d used throughout. Mr Balmain had also made grape jewellery in the ‘40s and ‘50s. Rousteing used castings of heavy bunches casting for earrings and necklaces, created vivid grape vine prints embossed vines onto leather jackets and made garlands of porcelain grapes to adorn a gingham tablecloth dress (another picnic reference) which was entirely crystallised. There were bustiers shaped like elegant fans or cast in polished metal from fossils, whilst gowns swagged at the hip were a clear homage to classic Balmain couture.
Many looks were focused on trousers cut loose and tapered, “I’m obsessed with them,” admitted the designer who also has a passion for trench coats. He morphed that classic piece into trench-skirts, long dresses and ‘Jolie Madame’ nipped-in tailoring. Rousteing played to his strengths with talking point clothes, designed to stand out.
Photography courtesy of Balmain.
