For SS22, Central Saint Martins alum AV Vattev is looking to the powerhouse hip-hop stars that ruled the ’90s in Soul Control.
As the brand’s first-ever co-ed collection, Vattev was initially drawn to the camaraderie and confidence of hip-hop’s biggest stars, from Mary J. Blige to the notorious K.I.M. “I was inspired by the freedom, creativity and strength they expressed through their music and personal style,” Vattev explains, thus manifesting in the collection as slinky jackets fashioned with puffy sleeves and butter yellow dresses with plunging necklines.
The work of esteemed British painter David Hockney coloured the mix, giving the designer a vicarious taste of freedom and nature while he hunkered down in the studio over the gruelling winter lockdown. His influence can be felt in Vattev’s menswear, through graphic tartan trousers in oceanic blues; lime green jackets that expose the waist in a symmetrical butterfly wing; jagged print knit vests and breezy shorts.
Having also launched his very first bag design – a fetching leather moment with chunky straps, in collaboration with the Spanish leather goods brand Brussosa – and a one-of-a-kind jewelry line with fine artist Freya Douglas, Soul Control is about paving the way for Vattev’s future. A mish-mash of silhouettes old and new, detachable and entrenched, and above all, pretty damn fresh.
Photography by Suleika.
