Celine: Menswear AW19
Before we go in, a brief history: Hedi Slimane changed men’s fashion forever. At Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Dior Homme then back to Saint Laurent as the creative behind both men’s and womenswear lines. Jobs in between as a respected
Kenzo: Menswear AW19
A cultural exchange in clothing. This seemed to be the underlying message at this afternoon’s Kenzo show in Paris. The designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon focused on Leon’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage and the rich culture of his Tusán people as they fused
Wooyoungmi: Menswear AW19
Broken down into single garments, it’s easy to understand why the Wooyoungmi aesthetic speaks directly to a cool, young fashion customer: autumn’s wardrobe of football shorts and knits; puffa jackets and early-90s-style bleach-washed jeans and bulky trainers and shoes is
Sacai: Menswear AW19
Sneakerheads: that very same Nike collaboration is happening again and out autumn; this time it’s grey and white. Some had fur on. The spring version, in red and green, sold out. Well, will sell out when it finally drops, the
Hermés: Menswear AW19
On her design process at Hermès, Creative Director of Menswear Veronique Nichanian, has said “I design one piece like an object and after I design the pants, the jacket, the sweater. I mix them together. Each garment works separately.” It’s
Thom Browne: Menswear AW19
Fusing garments that really belong in a different drawer with something that should have been hung properly in that wardrobe in the spare bedroom; Thom Browne created a series of closet chimeras: coats conjoined with cardis and a jumper. These
Junya Watanabe: Menswear AW19
You wouldn’t expect anything less from a pattern cutter: before his duties as fashion’s unofficial chief idea-generator, Junya Watanabe was the man who made the House of Comme des Garçons come to life. It was Watanabe, who turned the esoteric
Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus: Menswear AW19
Oh, you can try and unpack Comme des Garçons but you’ll be there all day. Designer Kawakubo neither explains nor comments; she’s not for words. Her work, she says, is her explanation - but have you seen it? Multi-referential and
Balmain: Menswear AW19
In 2011 Olivier Rousteing was named Creative Director of Balmain; he was just 25-years-old. Since then he has created a design signature, which he cleverly reinterprets every season for his women’s and menswear lines. Tonight, to a packed house, the
Berluti: Menswear AW19
“I’m happy to finally give birth — I feel like it’s been 10 months instead of nine, so I’m way overdue,” Kris van Assche told WWD before the outing of his first show for Berluti. Van Assche is the former
Rick Owens: Menswear AW19
It’s quiet before a Rick Owens show, like in a church. And we are in a way, and here to pay our respect to a designer held, by his fans, in god-like, status. Today’s service was held in the Anne Lacaton
Louis Vuitton: Menswear AW19
The luxury trade has never been as alive with revolution (and competition). All houses have the new high-spending, luxury-hungry Gen Z-ers in their sights. It’s these young men, who are fuelling a new boom at the very top end of
Off-White: Menswear AW19
Virgil Abloh is prolific and successful. His designs for the Louis Vuitton spring menswear collection have, reportedly, already sold 30% more in the first 48 hours in-store, than the brand’s Supreme collaboration did in 2017. Abloh’s tenure as menswear creative director
Raf Simons: Menswear AW19
Atmosphere, the opening track of last night Raf Simons show, his first since leaving as creative director of Calvin Klein, holds a special place amongst Joy Division fans. It’s the track played at the funeral of band’s manager Tony Wilson;
JW Anderson: Menswear AW19
The cut-and-paste, Tumblr-like mind of Jonathan Anderson is impressive. His work stands out as one of the most researched and curious amongst his peers. He reads and pours over books and manuals; he’s an avid art fan. But it was his