Moschino: Ready-to-Wear AW20
“It’s Marie Anime-toinette” said Jeremy Scott of his Moschino show. What a historical romp! “I was playing with this whole idea of a time machine,” he explained. Scott took the historic farthingale of the 1780s but re-did it as a
Prada: Ready-to-wear AW20
We were ringside at the gallery, peering down on something intriguing. The Prada show happened in a submerged, cloistered pit designed by AMO, part of Rem Koolhaas’ architecture firm, on a set that was first seen at the menswear show
Emporio Armani: Ready-to-wear AW20
Mister Armani did not become the most successful fashion designer on the planet and a cultural colossus by sticking to convention. His sporty elegance rewrote the rules of modern dressing so it’s no surprise that his muse for Emporio Armani
Max Mara: Ready-to-wear AW20
Winter means coats and coats mean Max Mara. The Italian house has such a mastery of outerwear that it’s hard to imagine a cold day without it. This season designer Ian Griffiths took inspiration from the sea and seafarers. Every coat
No21: Ready-to-wear AW20
Alessandro Dell'acqua delivered a masterclass in Milanese dressing at his Numero Ventuno label. Take a shirt, but make it seductive. Not slutty, but hot, in a way that’s so sure of itself it doesn’t need to be overt. That means
JW Anderson: Ready-to-wear AW20
The thing about JW Anderson that makes everyone sit up and take notice is his determination to revel in statement-making design. He works at the parameters of taste. What’s the point of designing a perfect shawl-collared swing coat when you
Burberry: Ready-to-wear AW20
It was epic. It was huge! A vast mirrored platform filled Kensington Olympia. In the middle loomed two grand pianos for Katia and Marielle Labèque and an elevated producer platform for Arca. The trio performed a live soundscape as 108
Roksanda: Ready-to-wear AW20
“Wow! Did that just happen?” said Roksanda, after Cate Blanchett popped backstage to give her a big hug and congratulate her on her show. Joely Richardson, Vanessa Redgrave and Billy Porter were also there. It’s a testament to the designer’s
Chalayan: Ready-to-wear AW20
This has to be a first. In a marvellous feat of polymathery Hussein Chalayan didn’t just design his collection but also wrote and sang his own lyrics to a soundtrack worked on with legendary dance music maestro Mark Moore of
Roland Mouret: Ready-to-wear AW20
“It was not the best time but now it looks like the best time,” said Roland Mouret of his collection inspired by Thatcher’s Britain. He first came to the UK during that period and remembers tumultuous times and the anger
Victoria Beckham: Ready-to-wear AW20
‘Boss in a dress’ blared the soundtrack which could be the story of Victoria Beckham’s brand. She started a decade ago with just 10 dresses and has evolved into a serious fashion and beauty tastemaker. Every season there’s an ‘it’
Dilara Findikoglu: Ready-to-wear AW20
Dilara Findikoglu’s witchy woman is evolving. Victoriana will always be her first love but she’s also embracing tweed skirt suits – although they’re slashed to the hip bone and slung with a skinny pearl belt jangling with the letters of
Fashion East: Ready-to-wear AW20
A death drop, a model smeared in ketchup, man pubes… What would London Fashion Week be without Fashion East? The platform has launched so many of the designers who have gone on to define two decades of British Fashion. This
Halpern: Ready-to-wear AW20
The Brits are obsessed with class. Any good American can see that – and Michael Halpern is a very good American. But rather than reinforcing the way dressing up divides us and keeps us separate, he tore down the barriers.
Central Saint Martins MA: Ready-to-wear AW20
Fashion corps descended upon Central Saint Martins for a snapshot of fashion’s future. CEOs, celebrities, head hunters, designers, past alumni, journalist, stylists and art directors all came to see the new creative crop. These MA fashion graduates really do go