Versace: Ready-To-Wear AW24
“A rebel with a kind soul. A good person,” is how Donatella Versace describes her Versace woman. Her muse has evolved from her sex vixen era into something more nuanced, with a wardrobe to match.
Gucci: Ready-To-Wear AW24
Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci reset is gathering pace. He is steering the house in a cleaner, younger, sharper direction, building on the foundations of his clean cut debut. The designer moved up a gear, lavishing his collection with craft and pushing
Prada: Ready-To-Wear AW24
It was clear that Prada AW24 was a show for the ages, designed to send the Pradaphiles into high earth orbit.
Moschino: Ready-To-Wear AW24
Welcome to Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza! The 51-year-old Argentinian designer, unveiled his debut collection for the house just a few weeks after his appointment was announced. The short lead-time focused his mind on adapting Moschino archive signatures for a new generation.
Max Mara: Ready-To-Wear AW24
French writer Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette’s combination of masculine style and feminine energy was the root of Ian Griffiths’ AW24 Max Mara show.
Fendi: Ready-To-Wear AW24
Sleek, supple and superlative: the Fendi approach to life has plenty of appeal.
Burberry: Ready-To-Wear AW24
Are coats the new bags? Burberry’s Daniel Lee sent out a symphony of terrific outerwear that had you wishing for cold weather, rain and the pleasure of a long walk.
JW Anderson: Ready-To-Wear AW24
'Last of the Summer Wine'? The cosy British sitcom about the adventures of OAPs in a Yorkshire village is an unlikely hunting ground for trends but, JW Anderson finds fashion gold in the unlikeliest of places.
Dilara Findikoglu: Ready-To-Wear AW24
It wasn’t a fashion show, it was a manifesto, delivered by Dilara Findikoglu with a roar of femme energy, designed to snuff out the male gaze and trample the patriarchy under its (very high) heel and leave it for dust.
Simone Rocha: Ready-To-Wear AW24
This was the final part of a triptych of collections that Simone Rocha worked on simultaneously.
Roksanda: Ready-To-Wear AW24
The AW24 Roksanda collection was inspired by a visit to the architect Le Corbusier’s tiny 12-square-foot holiday cabin in the south of France.
Harris Reed: Ready-To-Wear AW24
On the eve of London Fashion Week, Harris Reed showed his most polished collection yet pouring all the finesse (and perhaps some of the investment) picked up during his twelve months at Nina Ricci into his namesake collection.
Maison Margiela: Artisanal 2024
John was in full Galliano storytelling mode for Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024, giving his epic fashion fantasy an unfettered freedom to roam for the first time since his fall from Dior and second coming at Maison Margiela. It was an
Chanel: Couture SS24
A ballet theme ran through Chanel’s SS24 couture looks with designer Virginie Viard prescribing “lots of tulle, and legs, and lightness and summer”.
Dior: Couture SS24
There’s an undoubted kinship between Maria Grazia Chiuri the couturier whose masterful manipulation of cloth is at the heart of her success at Dior and the 93-year-old artist Isabella Ducrot who works with fabric.