March 2, 2016 |
Is Anthony Vaccarello going to Saint Laurent? That’s the big question – one we’re not allowed to ask (and even if we did, the only answer was “no comment”). But it gave Anthony Vaccarello’s always-energetic kick-start to Paris fashion week an extra frisson. Vaccarello doesn’t really do literal inspirations – it’s more about legginess, cinched tailoring, corsetry, a sense of the body. His current tenure at Versus Versace has offered ample chance to expound on that aesthetic, which is perhaps why his own label has become darker, more industrial, less flash. Dare we say grunge? Grunge in a girdle, maybe? A corset defining the body under a hooded top, high-rise trousers delineating a waist. It was all a bit supermodel era, harking back indeed to Gianni’s early nineties heyday. Nevertheless, this offering was utterly Vaccarello. The man has an aesthetic. And that will shine through, regardless of the label attached to these clothes. So let’s just wait and see, as Paris unfolds….
