September 25, 2023 |
Mina, the Italian singer whose enchanting voice serenaded on the soundtrack, was Andreādamo’s muse this season. In the designer’s mind, a vivid portrait of her bloomed: “Her hand in her hair, erotic gaze. Pure desire.”
Stepping out in their balletic strappy sandals, Adamo’s girls didn’t come to play. Their eyes were lined in black, screaming desire, deep and proud; their walk was sultry, assertive, seductive. He called it, “suave subversion.” They wore boxy blazers borrowed from the boys but with skilfully-tailored cinched-in waists and paired with high-class cargos; fabulous fringed knit body-con midi-dresses (one of which was decked in dazzling sequins); and boudoir bodysuits in ultra-light ribbed cottons over matching g-strings or sometimes, under delectably draped skirts, capris or leather hot pants. The brand’s everyday Henley shirt for men was even transformed into a sexed-up midi dress with a plunging neckline extending all the way to the nave.
Continuing to push the notion that “nude is universal,” shades of ivory and black danced with smatterings of Eros and khaki, chocolate and burnt mahogany hues. Adamo named it Seconda Pella, which translates to ‘second skin’ in English. It was the perfect thing to call it, considering the tender, yet erotically charged transparencies he plays with and the chemistry of covering and uncovering, cutting out and stitching in. A new X-Ray stitch, in fact, offers another dimension to the Italian label’s signature ribbed knitwear, underlining curves like eyeliner for your figure. As always, Adamo focussed on “liberating without constricting” the women who wear his clothes, and he did so brilliantly.
A red leather clad blonde bombshell closed the show. Donning a cropped halter top with a matching strappy leather knee-length skirt, she was like a 21st century femme fatale. Her ‘60s-style skinny eyebrows, sleek Twiggy-esc pixie cut and sharp stare brought only one thing to mind: Mina.
Photography courtesy of Andreādamo.
