“It’s still about taking the codes of Azzedine and bringing them to a new generation. It’s about femininity and a sexuality that’s both rough and elegant at the same time,” Pieter Mulier said after his third Alaïa show, which took place in the maison’s new space on Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. He honed the Alaïa codes in a collection informed by the founder’s collections, from 1984 to 1992 and beyond, modelled by house muse Linda Spierings as well as Doutzen Kroes and Mariacarla Boscono. “It’s about impurity: silhouettes that are so simple. That’s why I opened with four silhouettes that looked so simple. They’re so sexy but they’re covered three times. She has a body, an underbody, and a skirt,” Mulier explained of his second-skin creations, some of which were constructed entirely in cashmere. He evoked the same effect in eveningwear that played with transparency and draping. “I always wanted to drape but I never draped in my previous jobs. I don’t want to say ‘goddess’ because I don’t like the word, but it’s really about empowering.
Photography courtesy of Alaïa.