September 1, 2025 |
Pieter Mulier’s collection for Alaïa served up a study in contrasts – hard and soft, structure and fluidity, past and future. Set within the maison’s atelier, the models wove around Mark Manders’ fragmented, time-worn artworks.
“Each of his sculptures is a work in progress or marked by the passage of an imaginary time, reminiscent of many different cultures. And that idea of a non-linearity – of space and time – was inspiring,” said the designer. “The idea of codes of beauty outside any era or geography, free of boundaries, is innately keyed to the philosophy of Alaïa, our identity.”
The collection featured monastic looks with padded hoods that created a halo effect around models’ heads while sheer mesh clung to angular figures, creating an alien-esque mood. Bulging reptilian spines, which were actually elongated 3D ruffs or padded tubing, snaked around shoulders and necks. Curious crinolines jutted out at the hip, their exaggerated volume cascading into fluid pleats. Sharp colour-blocking added edge, while shaggy faux-fur coats wrapped the body in cocoon-like softness. Leather-fringe skirts swayed like exoskeletons and layered silhouettes mirrored “the topography of the female form”.
Mulier described the collection as a meditation on history, geography and, above all, women. “The message is about singularity, individuality and the eternal strength and resilience of women, empowering them through their clothes.” Here, lensed by Nick Knight, model Colin Jones looks heroic in such statuesque designs. Her journey from growing up in a suppressed Mormon town in Utah to becoming one of the most in-demand beauties to take to the catwalk is one of strength and courage.
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ALAIA: ETERNAL BEAUTY
Photographer NICK KNIGHT
Fashion Editor ANNA TREVELYAN
Model COLIN JONES
Text EMILY PHILLIPS
Hair ALI PIRZADEH at Streeters
Make-up VAL GARLAND at Streeters using INGLOT COSMETICS
Manicurist ABENA ROBINSON at Agency41 using ESSIE
Set designer ANDREW TOMLINSON at Streeters
Supervising set designer ALFIE MCHUGH
Creative consultant CALUM KNIGHT
3D technology SHOWSTUDIO
Digital operator JOE COLLEY
Photographer’s assistants LARA HUGHES, GRACE HODGSON, MADISON BLAIR, GILL WARNER and FREYJA MCDONALD
Fashion assistants GEORGIA EDWARDS and SONYA MAZURYK
Hair assistants JOSE DOMENE and KRISTIAN SZALAY
Make-up assistant PAULA MAXWELL
Editorial interns JONTY RACE and MAX FOSHEE
Casting DAVID CHEN
Production LIBERTE
Producer KAT DAVEY
Production assistant NIA DAVIS
Post-production EPILOGUE IMAGING
Special thanks to SHOWSTUDIO, CHARLOTTE KNIGHT, CHRIS YIANOULLOU, GABRIELA MOUSSAIEFF, ISABELLE CHURCHILL, JORDAN LAMBERT and CLAUDIA WILLIAMS
Clothing and accessories throughout by ALAIA Summer Autumn 2025 collection
On the cover COLIN wears ALAIA
