Some people collect jewellery. Isabel Lopes da Silva collects worlds. For more than four decades, the Lisbon-based antiquarian and collector has built a reputation for sourcing the rare, the unusual and the exceptionally beautiful, filling her gallery on Rua da Escola Politécnica with an expertly edited mix of jewellery, silverware and decorative objects spanning the 1930s-1970s. Since opening the space in 1998, she’s become a destination for those in the know, drawn to her sharp eye, deep knowledge and singular approach to collecting.
Now, for the first time, a selection of Isabel’s treasures has arrived in London. Presented at Dover Street Market‘s jewellery space, Fine Jewellery and Silver Objects brings together a tightly curated edit of pieces hand-picked by Ronnie Cooke Newhouse, the creative director and long-time da Silva devotee who first discovered her Lisbon shop nearly 20 years ago. The selection includes Italian silver candlesticks from 1950, a gold necklace from 1970 and a gold-and-peridot bracelet by Swedish silversmith Sven Boltenstern – each chosen for its distinctive character and craftsmanship.
Ahead of the presentation, which opens today, we spoke to Lopes da Silva and Cooke Newhouse about the curation process, the joy of collecting and what kind of jewellery catches their eye.
Ronnie Cooke Newhouse
How did you come across Isabel and why did she feel like the right fit for this exhibition?
I was introduced to Isabel by the then fashion editor of Portuguese Vogue. I told him, “Take me to your favourite shop in Lisbon.”
What was your curation process like for this exhibition? How closely did you work with Isabel?
I had been to the shop quite recently and took photos. But Isabel isn’t a big editor, and I edited further. Then somehow, I remembered pieces from my visit. The editing was a nightmare. I loved so many.
What, in your opinion, is special about Isabel’s eye for design and the pieces she collects?
Isabel’s eye and taste are amazing. She has been doing it for a long time and has honed her eye and knowledge of design-led jewellery from the ’30s to the ’70s over decades, long before it became a thing! Also, her eye for silver pieces and ceramics from the same eras speaks to the same kind of collector.
What do you hope visitors will take away from the showcase?
I hope they will take away pieces of jewellery and silverware that are truly unique. They are so transformative and hard to resist.
Isabel Lopes da Silva
When and why did you start collecting objects and jewellery? What do you love about it? How does it feel when you come across something you find amazing?
I had worked in the jewellery business since 1980 and felt it was the right time to open my own gallery. What I like most is seeking and finding the items. Treasure hunting, really. It’s an aesthetic experience. It just feels right.
What attracts you to a jewellery designer’s work? Are there any specific things you look out for or that always caught your eye?
What I like most is the mixture of materials, textures and colours: shell, wood, gold, silver and gemstones.
You focus on pieces dating from the 1930s to the 1970s. What about these decades makes the design that came out of them unique? How do you feel they hold up in 2026?
These decades of design were shaped by broader cultural and aesthetic movements, including architecture, painting and design.
What are some of your personal favourites included in this exhibition? Why?
I have no favourites, as I only buy things that I like. If I really had to choose, I would go with the ’70s necklace with varied gemstones and the pair of Italian silver candlesticks.
Why do you believe it’s important to archive and care for these antique pieces? What significance do they hold?
Rather than being kept in a museum, they should be worn.
Photography courtesy of Dover Street Market.
