November 20, 2025 |
This year marks the 25th anniversary of Sacai’s founding. Yet Chitose Abe, 59, the designer and also the company’s CEO, says she doesn’t want to glance over her shoulder. “I want to keep looking forward.” What does it mean for her creative evolution to refine the core of her design philosophy: the purity of ‘hybrid’? We spoke with her about her vision for the future of the brand.
Chitose. I was recently surprised to discover the deeper meaning hidden in her name for the first time. The character 千 (chi) doesn’t simply mean one thousand, it represents an uncountable multitude. In other words, ‘Chitose’ signifies an unstoppable force that continues to rise without end.
Fashion designer and creative director Chitose Abe, whose name evokes the image of a dragon ascending to the heavens, has nurtured Sacai into a one-of-a-kind, globally influential brand over the past 25 years. Yet she considers herself still in the middle of the journey, entirely immersed in the momentum toward what lies ahead.
When I met Abe again for our first interview in several years, she was wearing a look from Sacai’s SS24 collection in readiness for the portrait shoot before the interview. Her jacket featured balloon-like volume created through elaborate cutting and was paired with flared denim trousers whose bold silhouette spread out like a mermaid’s tail: a striking and unmistakably Sacai ensemble.
Abe has long made a point of personally wearing every piece to finalise her designs. Her favourite items are often quickly ordered for herself. “This jacket is from the first look of the SS24 collection. The theme was to simplify rather than add on, and to express Sacai’s identity through form,” she says. “For today’s shoot, I was thinking the silhouette from the side would be especially beautiful.”
At the shoot, she carefully considered how the garments looked in motion. “There’s a quote from Auguste Rodin that says, ‘The more simple we are, the more complete we become.’ I thought that was just perfect.” That quote was printed onto the garments in the collection. After the shoot, we returned to her office for the interview. Abe launched into the conversation with her trademark energy and vitality. She began by talking about her Bill Cunningham-inspired AW24 capsule.
“Taking familiar pieces and transforming them into something completely new – I think that’s at the core of Sacai,” says the label’s founder Chitose Abe
The press release opens with a quote from photographer Bill Cunningham: “Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life.” What prompted you to recall his words?
While developing the collection, we happened upon his words and felt they fit perfectly. It wasn’t that we started with Rodin’s quote for the SS collection either – rather, the ideas in the collection aligned so well with the quote that we decided to use it. I think that’s the more accurate way to put it.
The release also explains that the collection expresses a new idea of the female wardrobe, to make “jackets and coats appear like dresses” and “styling that can take you from morning to night”. Was that the initial concept?
Yes, the initial idea was that no matter how heavy the garment, everything is a dress. For instance, thigh-high boots serve the function of pants, with no bottoms underneath. Every item is designed to dress a woman up, to be a kind of ‘dress’.
Rather than being about a set theme, it’s more about how I want to wear something, or how I’d like others to wear it. Taking familiar pieces like jackets or T-shirts and transforming them into something completely new – I think that’s at the core of Sacai’s identity.
The show communicated the concept clearly. I felt Bill’s idea of fashion as armour aligns closely with the essence of Sacai.
I believe our role is to create clothes that give someone the courage to face their day, lift their spirits or inspire them to take a step forward. In that sense, Bill Cunningham’s words feel perfectly apt.
Was that sense of wanting to empower people something you envisioned from the very beginning of the brand?
To be honest, at first, I was the one who needed courage. Having been active on the frontlines of fashion, stepping away to focus on family left me feeling uncertain. In many ways, starting the brand was my way of giving myself the courage I lacked at the time. As I continued with Sacai, I found strength through the process and that naturally extended to wanting to offer that strength to others. Though putting it into words feels a bit presumptuous.
Not at all, I don’t think it’s presumptuous in the slightest.
In the beginning, it truly wasn’t anything grand. I just needed something – some form of courage – to feel alive again.
And the fact that this honest, personal impulse has endured as the very identity of your brand is powerful. It feels like the raw gem at the heart of everything you create.
Yes, even after 25 years, that hasn’t changed.
Chitose Abe (née Sakai) began her career at Comme des Garçons in 1989 and left in 1997 when she became pregnant. Two years later, she quietly launched Sacai with just five hand-knitted pieces – crafted from a ¥3,000 (£15 in today’s money) pack of yarn she had bought at the craft and hobby shop Yuzawaya. In a past interview, she recalled those early days away from work, describing a moment when, while pushing a stroller, tears suddenly welled up. It was a quiet but profound turning point, a pause before something new. Of course, the emotions she felt were separate from her love for her child. They were an irrepressible surge directed toward her own sense of self, her need to live fully as an individual. For a woman – no, for any human being – to love their child and also pursue meaningful work is nothing but natural. And for Abe, that work could only ever be fashion.
More than celebrating an anniversary, what matters now is looking forward. Both myself and the brand – we still have so much growing to do. I want us to become something even more real.
looks from Sacai’s AW25 men’s collection, inspired by Maurice Sendak’s book ‘Where The Wild Things Are’
Previously, you mentioned wanting Sacai to become a truly authentic brand. It’s now been 13 years since you started showing in Paris. How do you feel about that path now?
Of course, things have evolved. The company has grown, and I wouldn’t say we’re not authentic any more. But at the same time, I know I won’t be here for ever – and I want to leave the brand in a strong, honest place. That’s why I’ll probably keep saying we’re striving for authenticity until the very end.
That’s quite a clear vision. From a business perspective, how do you balance intuition with growth?
Honestly, I’m very instinct-driven. Sales aren’t everything to me. What matters more is whether something feels right for Sacai – whether it’s cool, whether it has integrity. I think that’s the mindset that’s gotten us here. That said, yes, our sales are definitely growing.
Compared to 10 years ago, how do things look now?
We’ve definitely grown. But that doesn’t mean we’ve started producing more than we need to, or expanding our retail network just for the sake of higher sales. It’s all been very organic. What’s been especially gratifying is the growing attention we’re receiving overseas. Our space at Le Bon Marché [in Paris] is doing really well – it’s beautiful. And we’re also carried at Bergdorf Goodman [in New York]. We’re exactly where we’ve always hoped to be.
Still, Sacai has relatively few standalone stores. It almost feels natural that there should be one in New York or Paris.
It’s something we’ve been thinking about for a long time. But we tend to take our time. We want to make sure we understand how Sacai is being perceived, who is wearing it and why. That kind of careful approach might be why things move a bit slower. At the moment, our standalone stores are in Tokyo, Beijing and Seoul. Our team has grown too. We now have about 50 people across the atelier and office and just under 100 on the retail side. We also have offices in New York and Paris.
Sacai has also become known for its dynamic collaborations; it’s clear that you have strong support from fellow designers. Perhaps that’s because you’ve built something so independent and remained true to your own style throughout.
I really appreciate how warmly people approach us, including when it comes to collaboration. I still believe in staying independent, but I’ve also become more open to the idea that there may be value in other ways of working too. That said, freedom remains the most important thing to me.
looks from Sacai’s AW25 men’s collection, inspired by Maurice Sendak’s book ‘Where The Wild Things Are’
And ultimately, it’s that freedom – the fact that you’re both the designer and the CEO – that gives you that clarity and control.
In 2014, Sacai made headlines when its annual retail sales surpassed ¥10 billion (£51 million today), a milestone that marked the brand’s growing commercial strength. A decade later, that figure has risen significantly, solidifying its place as a force to be reckoned with in the global fashion landscape. Its collaborative history is as diverse as it is impressive, beginning with Nike and Moncler and extending across a spectrum that includes Cartier and Carhartt WIP. Most recently, a capsule collection inspired by Bunney/Eug’s sterling-silver vases captured attention for its unexpected elegance. It’s this intuitive sense of selection, of knowing what and who to collaborate with, that continues to define and strengthen Sacai’s identity.
Sacai seems to have particularly strong engagement with its customers. Would you agree?
I feel like the direction of the brand – that we’re not just chasing business – is something that’s coming through clearly. Just because something sold well last year doesn’t mean it will work again. It’s challenging and intense, but it’s made me realise how much I genuinely love making clothes. When the shape of a new collection starts to come into view, that’s when I feel grateful I kept going. Of course, watching the business grow is exciting too, but the real joy comes from the act of creating.
And in that process, what is the happiest moment for you?
I want to create something new, but not something that no one would wear. I want to create something fresh, but not unwearable. Ideally, it’s something that makes people think, “This is new, but maybe I could try it.” That’s the balance, the same one I myself would want to wear. Finding that point is always difficult. I wake up feeling off most mornings during the process and the happiest moment is when that perfect balance finally becomes clear.
That sounds like you’re always navigating the balance of ‘comfort and disruption’, a core idea for Sacai.
Yes, absolutely. Each season, we decide intuitively, maybe this time the disruption should be stronger, or maybe we tone it down. It’s not something I can logically explain; it’s all based on the instincts of myself and my team.
‘Everyday life’ also seems like a subtle but key theme in Sacai’s work.
I think there are many people who look at Sacai and say, “That’s not everyday wear for me.” But for us it is. I only release what I or someone on the team would actually wear. No matter how bold it is, we ask ourselves, would we wear this? If we stray from that, it’s no longer Sacai. My pattern makers, who shape the garments, often get asked, “Would you want to wear this?” That kind of dialogue is essential to us. We always want to create clothes that feel like a bit of a challenge but still desirable. That’s what Sacai is all about.
he AW25 men’s collection features collaborations with Carhartt WIP, Ugg and J.M. Weston
That’s the ultimate kind of branding.
Even if there’s just one piece left on a rack, I want people to instantly recognise it as Sacai.
To be honest, there are a lot more clothes out there these days that feel ‘very Sacai’, aren’t there? Your designs mix so many different elements, and yet, even if someone tries to imitate it, it’s instantly clear when something isn’t Sacai. The idea of ‘hybrid’ feels very much like something the times were calling for. But I think what’s really remarkable is that you’ve established a sensibility that’s completely your own within that concept.
I’ve always loved menswear and the idea started with thinking, “What if I added something feminine to this?” That was the beginning of the hybrid concept and, by the second year of the brand, it had already taken shape. Then I started thinking about how every individual contains multitudes, like softness and strength, regardless of gender. If I could merge those contrasting elements within a single garment, that would be interesting. And that idea has continued to evolve.
So this idea of hybridity expanded beyond just clothing, it became something that speaks to the nature of human identity itself?
It might sound a little grand, but yes. I started to feel that if clothing could express the many sides of a person, that would be really compelling. That balance of contradiction and harmony is where I think the beauty of a person lies.
And really, concepts like femininity and masculinity aren’t as fixed as they seem.
Exactly. What matters more is the range within a single person. I myself have moments of bold decisiveness, but also times when I’m full of doubt. If I can reflect that kind of internal complexity in clothing, that’s what excites me.
That kind of honesty and nuance, that’s what people are really responding to. Sacai offers a way to wear something that doesn’t feel boxed in by rigid ideas of gender.
If people see it that way, I’m grateful. What I’m trying to create is garments that embrace contradiction in a way that still feels wearable. I think that’s what keeps Sacai distinct. I’m glad if people are receiving it that way. If that’s the part they resonate with, then it’s exactly what we ourselves are feeling as we create.
That sense of connection, almost like a quiet friendship with the brand, might be exactly why people feel drawn to wearing Sacai.
Sacai made its Paris Fashion Week debut in 2011. By its third season, stylist Karl Templer stepped forward of his own accord, joining the creative team to help shape both the show and its image. From that moment, Sacai’s presentations grew increasingly refined and, in tandem, Abe’s creative vision gained remarkable maturity. The brand’s modern sensibility began to resonate seamlessly with sophisticated European women, who embraced it with an ease that spoke volumes. Templer had been a devoted fan of Sacai even before the brand’s Paris shows began, frequently requesting pieces from the Tokyo office. That kind of organic connection – creative alliances formed out of genuine admiration – has become one of Sacai’s defining strengths. Fashion journalist Sarah Mower, who had recognised Sacai’s promise since its early days, offered a quiet affirmation: “Sacai has found its place in Paris.”
he AW25 men’s collection features collaborations with Carhartt WIP, Ugg and J.M. Weston
I’ve heard that your mother was a wagashi [Japanese sweet] maker and I was curious if that had any influence on you.
She’s 87 now and has retired, but she used to make handmade wagashi. My sister lives with her now. When I was a child, my mother not only made wagashi, she also sewed clothes on the house’s sewing machine for a local clothing shop. She often made clothes for me. Even as a young child, I really disliked wearing the same clothes as everyone else. She would alter ready-made clothes for me, turning regular sleeves into puff sleeves or slimming bell-bottoms. So, I suppose my love for creating clothes might stem from my mother. When I was younger, I spent a lot of time browsing thrift shops and travelling alone abroad. I’ve always just loved clothes, that’s all.
I can imagine that the child you were is directly connected to the person you are today.
Even now, if I feel something is ‘uncool’, I can never compromise. No matter how much it sells, it’s a no. I think I’ll always be saying, “I love making clothes.”
Fashion and magazines have changed a lot over the past 10 years, haven’t they?
The biggest change, I think, is social media. Our philosophy about making clothes hasn’t changed. We simply want to keep creating clothes for people’s everyday lives.
Sacai has an exceptionally high sales percentage of what you make, doesn’t it?
Of course, it’s not zero, but we believe that producing only what’s necessary is our way of practising sustainability. The fact that our sales are still growing is thanks to everyone involved with Sacai. The staff are truly amazing.
Is there anything you keep in mind when building your company and team?
I try not to make decisions on my own, I always consult with many people. I make a conscious effort to stay open-minded and I want to create an environment where even new members can speak up. I value the team’s input. They’re my treasure.
You’ve often said you “want to see a different view”. As the company has grown, I imagine you’ve already seen a variety of landscapes. Is there still a view you want to see?
In the past, I might have been focused on ‘higher’ views, wondering why a certain journalist didn’t come or comparing myself to big-name brands. But in recent years, I’ve moved away from thinking in terms of high or low. I’ve become more curious about brands that are simply interesting. At the same time, I’m really excited to see how Sacai will continue to evolve. I’m genuinely looking forward to what I’ll do next.
Do you have any hopes for what Sacai could be in the future?
Above all, I just want it to be cool.
And what does ‘cool’ mean to you?
That’s a tough question. I think what’s really important is striking a balance, building a business that allows us the freedom to do what we love without having to do things we dislike. I also want to maintain a sense of being ‘cool’, which includes balancing comfort and surprise.
So it’s the coolness of not being afraid to take risks, even to ‘betray’ expectations?
I feel like being able to share that mindset is the most important thing. I think the staff all understand that. Honestly, I might be the one enjoying this the most. I’m really excited to see where we’ll be in five or 10 years. I just truly love this job. Maybe the sales follow because we’re genuinely having fun.
The way you enjoy your work might be the best kind of employee training.
I think everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. Each of them takes responsibility but also approaches their work with a sense of freedom.
As the conversation drew to a close, Abe turned to the two women seated beside her (colleagues in communications and PR) and sought their quiet confirmation. It was a small gesture, but telling. There is around Abe a consistent atmosphere of genuine female camaraderie. One imagines her always surrounded by women, not just collaborators, but companions. Of course, Sacai’s world includes many men, both among her team and in her loyal clientele. But there is something unmistakably feminine at the brand’s core, a sensibility not limited by gender but undeniably shaped by it. In its early days, Sacai was described as offering “fashion- forward clothes that happened to be irresistibly appealing”, a subtle hybrid of style and seduction.
Perhaps that too was a kind of hybrid. But the clothes that first gave the designer her own sense of courage soon began to embolden others – women, first and foremost, and eventually men as well. They are clothes that captivate. Clothes that have taken flight in unexpected directions. And always, at their heart, is a pursuit of something real: a ‘hybrid way of living’ – not a slogan, but a way of being.
Taken from 10 Men Issue 62 – BIRTHDAY, EVOLVE, TRANSFORMATION – out on newsstands now. Order your copy here.
Photographer YOSHIYUKI NAGATOMO
Text MITSUKO WATANABE
Sittings editor SAORI MASUDA
Hair KOTARO
Make-up SADA ITO using NARS Cosmetics
