October 2, 2025 |
Torishéju Dumi, coming off the back of winning the 2025 LVMH Savoir-Faire prize, showed us a collection of deconstructed chaos for SS26. Called Dürer, it was a visual representation of inner conflict. Aptly named after the German Renaissance artist Albrecht Dürer who dove into cosmic concepts of heaven and earth, Torishéju similarly found her inspiration in the struggle to stay whole amid the overwhelming pandemonium of modern life.
Opened by Naomi Campbell, uniforms came into full focus, despite the fact that when watching, uniformity was the farthest thing from our minds. Instead, these were fragmented ideas, wherein uniforms were skewed and recreated to reflect how our minds struggle to stay organised amid the chaos.
We saw skirts upon skirts, layered upon trousers casually falling off models’ hips with tailored suit jackets on top. A stunning crimson leather set appeared, a glaring light at the end of the mental spiral Torishéju was exploring. These were distorted school, military, industrial and work uniforms, where frayed edges and precise volume existed in a state of unexpected symbiosis. You had to look at them up close though, because even though they looked oh so familiar… something was off.
The tiny details made the most noise; the overstimulated mind could be found in frayed hems, cognitive dissonance in asymmetric materials and running thoughts in the intricate beadwork. The angles, cuts and twists added grit. Loose fabric and layers created billowing silhouettes. Gaping holes represented the distortion of memory.
Conceptual and expertly executed, Torishéju SS26 cut through the noise.
Photography courtesy of Torisheju.
