September 5, 2025 |
My knowledge of Angela Hartnett, having been less exposed to the restaurant world than others who surely know her primarily as a successful chef, started through her podcast Dish, which she hosts with Nick Grimshaw. Nicknamed Ange by her co-host, the Waitrose-sponsored show invites celebrity guests, from Dua Lipa to Florence Pugh, to dine with Hartnett and Grimshaw in the former’s London home.
They chuckle and chat whilst breaking bread, as Hartnett explains the dishes she’s cooked, a ritual often punctuated by stories from her childhood as part of a family from the southern Italian comune of Bardi. It’s always easygoing chatter, despite the gargantuan fame of some of their guests, with Hartnett abdicating from any harshness or bravado that other famous chefs might be known for.
This same down-to-earth approach provides the soil in which Cafe Murano is rooted. With Hartnett as its Chef Patron (a head chef who also is a primary partner in the business), the restaurant’s original site in St James’ Street opened in 2013, with its latest spot on a leafy Marylebone corner opening just a few weeks back. “The people just keep flocking in,” a smiling hostess tells me, before joking that she’d thought the lashing rain we’ve had these past few weeks would stem the flow – but apparently not.
Having now had the pleasure of eating at Cafe Murano, its popularity is understandable. It’s delicious food, the service and taste level recalling why Hartnett has attained a Michelin star at the spot’s Mayfair sister, Murano, but manages to avoid any stuffiness. The decor has a vintage tone to it. Blush pink and dusty sage are washed across walls peppered with framed Italian cookbooks, the type fit for a matriarch with hands worn from years of homemade family feasts. Also on display are varying artistic interpretations of classic Italian or British scenes; a table covered in rolling lemons, fresh from the garden, or a half-drunk pint on a table of Soho’s The French House. The vibe is relaxed but not sloppy; the type of aesthetic that feels thrown together, but you know has been orchestrated by a master of their craft.
“For me it’s about really good, simple, tasty food,” reads a statement from Hartnett on the restaurant’s website. And you can tell. There’s no unnecessary frills at Cafe Murano. The focaccia, which we had to start, balanced crunch and fluff with ease. Dabbed with Hartnett’s own-brand olive oil, it set the tone of the meal as one that was more interested in quality ingredients than overcomplicated construction. The grilled peach and summer bean salad, topped with mint and basil did the same, its acidic twang the perfect tool to cut through the richness of the La Latteria burrata, fennel agrodolce and olive oil we ordered to match. Two portions of pasta followed – the spinach and ricotta Tortelli coated with a walnut sauce and a gnocchi with confit garlic and parsley. Both were casually plated, with the luxury element coming in via the depth of the sauces. The flavours were light, but had a weight of knowledge behind them. Simple, yes, but with execution only possible through experience and heart. The roasted John Dory, which sat on a bed of artichoke and pappa al pomodoro and a juicy Chicken Milanese, heartily bookended the meal. To drink, we had a a 2023 Toscana Rosato Rosé – the type of fresh wine you hope to soon be drinking on a sun-soaked balcony, unbothered by emails and the daily commute.
Now, personally, I would never go to an Italian restaurant and not get the Tirimisu. It’s a bit of a passion project. Cafe Murano presented a good case for me staying firmly within my comfort zone. A chunky slab of cream and sponge, dusted with milk chocolate shavings, our final taste off of Hartnett’s menu for this newly opened spot left the residue all good restaurants should – two smiling and satisfyingly stuffed customers. For those looking for an elevated meal that feels both homely and rooted in the competence of expertly-trained chefs, Cafe Murano’s your spot.
Photography courtesy of Cafe Murano.
