March 11, 2025 |
To the Gare du Nord, one of the busiest train stations in France; a place where a myriad of characters converge and personal dramas unfold. That provided irresistible inspiration for Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton AW25 show. The brand after all has its DNA in travel, and boomed with the spread of the railways in the 19th Century. Add to that, the fact that Louis Vuitton has also helped renovate a hidden inner courtyard at the station. This historic, secret corner of Paris, unseen by the public until now, made for a striking fashion show venue.
Thinking of the characters you see fleetingly on a station concourse – lovers parting, commuters rushing to catch trains, family reunions, holiday makers excitedly setting off on a trip – Ghesquière got to work. Out came Rubber mac’s and leather track pants, picnic blanket dresses, tiered ra ra skiers leather cargo shorts.
The designer asked his design team for their favourite films involving trains. Echoes of Brief Encounters, 2046, Murder on the Orient Express and the Harry Potter franchise could be seen in the era hopping looks, (does Ghesquere have a Tardis?) which took us from feather trimmed flapper coats to floral devoré bias cut gowns, ’70s flower-girl smocks and Victorian jackets rendered in distressed denim.
Trans Europe Express playing on the soundtrack was not a coincidence. There was also a moment given to eighties leisurewear and jumpsuits, part of a dedicated Kraftwerk capsule. The models whipped past at an urgent clip – these were women with somewhere to be. The whole thing had pace, energy, and a sense of purpose.
There were bags galore in this travel themed show, including soft versions of the Speedy and Petit Malle, 1950s vanity cases, hat boxes and even a ukulele case with an LV instrument inside. It’s an instant collectors item, as is the delightful street lamp bag which lights up like a lantern. This collection was full of wit wonder and humanity. All aboard.
Photography courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
