March 7, 2025 |
Julien Dossena called it Contain and Release; an apt title for an offering that unfolded like a masterclass in controlled chaos. Precious, primal and powerfully precise, his AW25 Rabanne collection worked to explore the interplay between restraint and liberation, presenting a sophisticated fusion of materials, shapes and colours. Dossena, ever the alchemist, played with opposites throughout. That meant structure and fluidity, protection and exposure, heritage and futurism were all juxtaposed into a wardrobe that gripped tightly, then shattered expectations in all the right places.
Faux fur took the title spot on the catwalk. Plush, enveloping coats cocooned the body, only to erupt into untamed, bushy tails that flicked with every step. Traditional tailoring was subverted, with kilts lined in wild tufts and glossy surfaces peeling back to reveal something raw beneath. It was all about tension – the tension between the polished and the unruly, the sharp and the soft.
Dossena didn’t stop at texture. The palette was a mood swing in and of itself: apricot and lilac clashed with deep burgundy and black, while a psychedelic pill print made a cheeky appearance on a razor-sharp suit. Rabanne’s signature metallics stepped out at the end, glistening across languid sequin slips, peeking out from beneath brushed knits or shrouded by transparent PVC.
Accessories added that too-cool-for-school type flair. High-laced combat boots stomped with intent, while glimmering socks and Mary Janes channelled a little grunge nostalgia. And the final touch? Old-world keys worn at the neck because why not? Mystery, darling, is the ultimate luxury.
Photography courtesy of Rabanne.
