March 6, 2025 |
If Acne Studios is a dab hand at one thing, it’s raking in a front row chock-a-block with cool girls, and sending clothes down the runway that’ll have them eagerly clutching at their shiny credit cards. Doechii (who is proving herself to be the reigning queen of this womenswear season), Shy Girl, Peggy Gou, Pink Pantheress, Gigi Goode and Madeline Argy all touched down in Paris to sit, poised and ready, for what the Swedish brand founded by Jonny Johansson would tell them to wear for AW25; and what he showed didn’t disappoint.
Johansson had two overarching messages: The first? Who cares if it’s cold? Show some damn skin! Driven home by fluffy, teddy-bear-like unitards that also came in shrunken check and silky greys and reds, the leg splits were also no less than thigh high; the necklines no less than deeply plunging. If there was a maxi dress, it was sheer and playful in its design, decorated with an swollen print of a dog or a bear. If kneecaps are your thing (they’re definitely out there), then you were in luck, with skin tight leggings sporting circular cut outs giving those old knobblers their starring moment.
The second message was, well, if you have to cover up, at least make it fun. This mainly manifested in the materials and detailing. Oversized pussybows stitched from chunky knits wobbled across sleeveless sweaters and a leather that crinkled and warped was used to create a healthy roster of shirts, coats and jackets. The shoulders of chunky shearling coats, jackets and dresses switched between jutting upwards and sliding down but never lost their bulbous shape. The It-girls watched in awe – the sexy, silly nature of it all charming them into another season of unwavering Acne allegiance.
Photography courtesy of Acne Studios.
