February 8, 2025 |
Calvin Klein Collection’s return to New York Fashion Week after a six-year hiatus was more than just a homecoming – it was a decisive statement about the brand’s future under new creative director Veronica Leoni. Within the intimate confines of the brand’s West 39th Street headquarters, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and Klein himself gathered in anticipation of Leoni’s debut.
The Rome-born designer’s CV reads like a minimalist fashion devotee’s dream – stints at Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, and The Row had the fashion world speculating how she might reimagine of one of the biggest American brands, that all but defined the sexy minimalism of the Nineties. But, as Leoni told the New York Times before the show, what the CK One–era Calvin Klein had was “sexitude,” an attitude that comes with a comfort with sex and sexuality, and owning how you wear clothes. “Most of the time, we see women as objects of desire… But what if they become the people who desire?” she said.
This sensuality emerged as a central theme throughout. While the palette stayed true to Calvin Klein’s characteristic neutrals – blacks, granites, and porcelains—unexpected bursts of barolo and raspberry prevented the collection from feeling austere. Leoni’s “monumental minimalism” manifested in wardrobe staples that felt both timeless and decidedly modern.
Coats in wool and twill were styled falling off the shoulders or buttoned up. Sweaters were shrunken and skirt suits sharp, with draped tailoring lending a sense of ease. The underwear theme, a Calvin Klein signature, was suggested through knitted henleys, flowing slip dresses, and satin separates. For men, bomber jackets, sturdy outerwear, relaxed denim and suiting alluded to Klein’s Americana. While Leoni took care not to lean too much into nostalgia, minaudières of the iconic CK One bottle appeared alongside several runway looks—a nod to her own obsession with the fragrance in the Nineties.
“As a designer, I have always been deeply inspired by Calvin Klein, and the chance to write this next chapter for the brand is a one-of-a-kind opportunity,” said Leoni in the post-show press release. “My goal is to define an ultimate and definitive expression of monumental minimalism and pureness through shape and craft, bringing Mr. Klein’s original vision and distinctive approach into the current day.”
Photography courtesy of Calvin Klein.
