January 25, 2025 |
During his tenure at Dior, Kim Jones has been in a continuous design dialogue with Christian Dior himself, cleverly adapting and remixing the hallmarks of the haute couturier to bring an air of romance and grandeur to his modern menswear wardrobe. This season Jones turned to the Ligne H AW54 collection, drawn to its “graphic and angular” moments, “which felt eminently transferable into the men’s world”, said the designer.
Throughout, Jones was able to adapt ornate, eighteenth century menswear and nineteenth century utilitarian codes, fused with flutters of Mr Dior’s elegant sartorial handwriting. Descending a giant white staircase with cinematic flair, models – many wearing semi-opaque blindfolds – donned cocooning opera coats tied into a bow at the shoulders, handsome bar jackets and long-line blousons frosted with crystals that mimicked rain splashes.
There was so much to marvel at here. Like floor-sweeping skirts, that were actually coats reworked to create an innovative silhouette that danced along the contours of the waist. Or the closing, hand-beaded, powder pink kimono frosted in silver embellishment.
Darting between masculine and feminine tropes, elegant moments of the past were tethered to the now; a masterful skill of Jones’, who bookended the day by receiving the French Legion of Honour, the country’s highest civilian decoration.
Photography courtesy of Dior.
