August 6, 2024 |
While the fashion industry at large relaxes during August and absconds to sunnier climes, the days are counting down to the next fashion month – with the SS25 womenswear shows kicking off in New York on September 6. As always, there are plenty of happenings across the travelling month of shows. From cameo appearances on the New York schedule from Alaïa and Off-White to returns from familiar faces Nensi Dojaka and Chopova Lowena in London. Elsewhere a post-Olympic Paris turns the dial from sport back to fashion with first outings from Chanel and Dries Van Noten without their creative directors and Alessandro Michele is set to make his show debut at Valentino. Overwhelmed with all the constant chops and changes? We’ve made life easier for you, below we list the top ten things to look forward to at the SS25 womenswear shows.
16Arlington AW24
AREA TURNS 10
Design duo Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg first met while studying at Parsons, but for the past decade have helmed glitzy New York label Area. Counting Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Michelle Obama among their clients – here’s hoping some of these famous faces will grace the FROW at their SS25 show on September 6, day one of NYFW.
ALAÏA AND OFF-WHITE HEAD TO NEW YORK
Taking a one-season vacation from their regular spots on the Paris Fashion Week schedule, Alaïa and Off-White are heading to New York to present their next collections. “New York has a very special significance to me. It’s the city of resilience. And resilience is the feeding ground for creativity,” says Alaïa’s creative director Pieter Mulier, who returns to the city after previously spending time there during his tenure under Raf Simons at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC. The city has also attracted Off-White, now under the creative direction of Ib Kamara. Surprisingly, given founder Virgil Abloh’s roots, the brand has never presented a collection on American soil in its eleven-year history. Stay tuned on September 8.
LONDON FASHION WEEK IS ON THE MOVE
While the Old Selfridges Hotel has been the recent home to the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN runway shows and presentations, for SS25, the chaos returns to 180 Strand. With this season’s recipients including upcoming names like Di Petsa, Chet Lo, Aaron Esh, Harri, Karoline Vitto, Paolo Carzana, Tolu Coker, Sinéad O’Dwyer and Charlie Constantinou the new-old space is clearly the place to be.
NEW FACES ON THE LFW SCHEDULE
A well-known breeding ground for upcoming design talents, London Fashion Week welcomes Central Saint Martins MA menswear graduate and L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award winner, Yaku Stapleton. Joining the party, artsy New York-based label Puppets and Puppets has crossed the Atlantic, debuting its first presentation in London on September 13. Elsewhere, the schedule says hello again to some familiar faces. Nensi Dojaka will present her first show after two seasons off, while design duo Chopova Lowena presents its sole show of the year. Not to mention, Greek designer Di Petsa is branching out into menswear for the first time. Lots to look forward to.
LFW’s 40th ANNIVERSARY CONTINUES
This year marks 40 years of London Fashion Week – celebrations that kicked off in February at the AW24 shows and continued throughout the menswear shows in June. Keeping the party going, the SS25 womenswear shows will see LFW toast to the big 4-0 with an ‘Icons’ party on September 16. Invites for icons only, naturally!
Tom Ford AW24
DOLCE & GABBANA SUPPORTS SUSAN FANG
Continuing its efforts to platform burgeoning design talents via its ‘Supported By’ initiative, Dolce & Gabbana invites London-based designer Susan Fang to Milan for the SS25 shows. Following in the footsteps of previous recipients Feben, Matty Bovan and Karoline Vitto, Fang received fabrics and materials from the house and will stage the show on D&G premises. “Drawing on the rich cultural commonalities between China and Italy, we have incorporated elements of design and technique that celebrate both traditions,” Fang said in a statement announcing the news. “We have felt a part of the Dolce & Gabbana family from day one and are thrilled to present what will be a very exciting collection during Milan Fashion Week this September.” We look forward to seeing the fruits of her labour on September 22.
MILAN IS MISSING A FEW NAMES
While city stalwarts Fendi, Dsquared2 and Moschino remain as a few of the jewels in its crown, the MFW schedule is a little light due to recent exits from Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford and Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine. While the latter’s new creative director David Koma makes his debut for pre-fall 2025, the hot seat at Tom Ford is still up for grabs. Watch this space!
ALESSANDRO MICHELE MAKES HIS VALENTINO SHOW DEBUT
It’s been three seasons since Alessandro Michele took his final bow at Gucci. Now creative director at Valentino, he makes his official debut at PFW on September 29. “I feel the immense joy and the huge responsibility to join a Maison de Couture that has the word ‘beauty’ carved on a collective story, made of distinctive elegance, refinement and extreme grace,” Michele shared on Instagram following the announcement. If the designer’s surprise Resort 2025 lookbook was an amuse-bouche, the SS25 main course will turn the designer’s penchant for glamour, romance and excess up to 11. The famine of beauty is over.
MCQUEEN’S SOPHOMORE SHOW
After making his debut as creative director at the newly named McQueen at the AW24 shows in Paris, Séan McGirr will reveal his sophomore collection on September 28. Building on the house’s codes in the following pre-fall 2025 collection, we’re crossing our fingers for an updated version of those hairy hoof heels. Clip clop, baby.
THE SHOW GOES ON AT CHANEL
Following its Cruise 2025 show presented in Marseille, Virginie Viard made a swift exit as Chanel’s artistic director after 30 years at the brand. While the hallowed French house is still yet to name a successor – though rumours continue to fly – the show must go on and the upcoming SS25 collection will come courtesy of the design team on October 1, the final day of PFW. We can see the finish line already.
Loewe AW24
Top image: From left to right – Simone Rocha AW24, Rabanne AW24, Schiaparelli AW24. Photography by Christina Fragkou. Follow all the action from the SS25 womenswear shows via our Instagram stories at @10magazine and @10menmagazine.
