February 26, 2024 |
Dolce and Gabbana is a brand that never suffers from an identity crisis. Its DNA – of Sicilian sexuality, sartorial excellence and sensual femininity – is so focused and well defined and the Dolce and Gabbana design language so clearly expressed, that the ins and outs of fashion don’t affect it. Stefano and Domenico do what they do, impeccably. “For us, only style transcends fashion,” the designers said in a statement. They renew that distinctive style every season.
The AW24 collection was dedicated to tuxedo dressing – “To us, designing a tuxedo means offering timeless elegance, deeply rooted in our sartorial culture. It means giving women a classic wardrobe that, escaping from current fashions, allows them to be more self-assured.” The models faces were uniformly veiled, their lips stained red, but each one stepped out in a different tuxedo variation.
The show opened with a cropped tuxedo jacket over a a lace bra, silk panties and fluttering open silk skirt, tied with a ribbon at the waist. Hourglass tuxedo coat-dresses came padded at the hips for extra curve, there were tuxedo Bermudas, hot pants tuxedos, tuxedo mini skirts worn with sheer blouses and little triangle bras, an LBD scooped low at the front to expose a lacy bra and on Natasha Poly, a sheer mesh tuxedo was worn over the house’s covetable lingerie. Naomi Campbell closed the show in a delicate lace camisole worn with a whisp of a skirt tied at the waist with satin tuxedo ribbons. The designers sent out so many iterations of the tux it was almost dizzying. It brought home their prowess as absolute masters of their craft.
“Nowadays we can create a tuxedo multiple times, improving it and making it different each time. It’s by perfecting essential pieces that we have created our personal and recognizable style,” they said. Masters at work.
Photography courtesy of Dolce and Gabbana.
