Wooyoungmi: Menswear AW24

The world according Woogyoungmi is one peppered with contemporary insights and cultural touchstones. The way outsiders and locals view South Korea’s capital of Seoul was Madame Woo’s focal point this season, with the Paris-based brand avoiding the trap of obvious stereotypes. Instead, the collection danced between office wear, uniforms and utilitarian basics, with a distinct character-first drive present in each look. 

Outerwear was a particular hit, with boxy blazers and trench coats constructed using monochromatic boucle and tartan. Old school materials like tweed were given a new lease of life, incorporated into loose-fitting bomber jackets and puffer coats. A deep blue velvet was deployed throughout, updating classic shapes like the chore coat and uniform jacket. To signify the cities that play a key role in the label’s nuanced design language, varsity-inspired patches with the word ‘PariSeoul’ were sprayed onto sleeves and breast pockets, while details inspired by the traditional Korean wrapping cloth Bojagi were interspersed in the form of hats with knots on top.

A youthful energy was present throughout, instilled with scout-like neckerchiefs and ties you could see slung round the necks of uniformed prep boys. An assortment of low-rise, baggy-fit jeans swung low on the hips of models who felt, ironically, too cool for school.  

Photography courtesy of Wooyoungmi.

wooyoungmi.com

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