Welcome to the Air House: Andersson Bell’s eclectic AW24 showcase. Here, a gargantuan, technicolour, inflatable art installation created by Korean artist Byungchan Lee becomes the backdrop for creative director Linus Kim’s reimagined militia, its parasitic structure suspended from the ceiling like a falling star.
The collection, presented during Milan Fashion Week Men’s on Sunday, was an homage to trailblazing South Korean figurehead Ki-Ok Kwon. Kwon was the one of South Korea’s first female pilots so the clothes that came out generously tapped into Air Force aesthetics with an added romantic twist.
Working for a second time with renowned stylist Robbie Spencer (he also styled the SS24 show), ensembles were layer and practical, with a particular focus on transitional design details: think ruched utility coats, knit gilets and collars, racer jackets, quilted parkas, parachute jackets and patchwork leather twinsets peppered with a “stargazer” print. After a procession of earthy browns and green, the offering began to burst with burnt orange and red hues, florals and plaids giving it all the goods to be just as playful as it was sellable. There were also dollops of velvet, which came in the shape of scrunchy handbags and courtly bustiers, softening the utilitarian edge of the offering.
Intermingling with the men’s looks, womenswear made a bold statement with sexy but sporty silhouettes that came in the shape of elegant parachute-inspired gowns with skirts that could be adjusted to the wearer’s desired length and jeans injected with squiggly parachute pouffes along the sides. Andersson Bell is ready for take off.
Photography courtesy of Andersson Bell.
