October 4, 2023 |
Perhaps it was the sunshine and warm weather but the mood among the Parisian designers seemed upbeat all week. First at Rick Owens, where the music consisted of Diana Ross singing “I still believe in love”, then at Comme des Garçons Rei Kawakubo found optimism despite the never ending bleak news cycle. The same sense of joy was seen at Sacai, where founder and designer Chitose Abe ended her show notes with the words, “And the underlying message that underpins and forms the foundation of Abe’s thinking? Always, irrefutably, and forever, ‘Love is best.’”
For Spring 2024 the designer explores the idea that the simpler a person becomes, the more complete they become. Simplicity is not minimalism. Instead it’s the idea that one knows exactly who they are and what they love – it’s to the point with no equivocation. That strong sense of identity drives Abe and how that translated was like a love letter to Sacai devotees, who happily buy anything that comes out of her mind. She has a knack for sculpting new shapes out of familiar pieces whether it’s a voluminous pair of shorts or sheer wide leg trousers. Circular pattern cutting was the theme for the new collection, with the intent to create gentle cocoon and balloon shapes. Abe is also known for her ability to juxtapose unexpected materials and silhouettes and the looks did not disappoint as lingerie details were mixed with outerwear and shirting. Everything felt lighter, sexier, courtesy of cutouts and plenty of chiffon insets and if that’s not optimism in clothing form, we don’t know what else would qualify.
Photography courtesy of Sacai.
