February 26, 2023 |
With a name like Persistence of Time, we expected it to be a retrospective runway, but the nostalgia that Bally brought to the table was far more nuanced. It was a cinematically styled assortment, playing with Rhuigi Villaseñor’s connection to Los Angeles and the bold blockbuster tropes of Old Hollywood; rich with 70s’ references and kicking off in a historic Milanese residence to top it all off – specifically Casa degli Atellani, the six-year home of Leonardo da Vinci and where he painted The Last Supper. As splendid co-ed ensembles of sharp suiting and elegant twinsets, models interacted with members of the audience, bringing a sense of whimsy to the pied-à-terre.
Silky gowns hung off models’ shoulders, exquisitely crafted tailoring and an overarching après-ski aesthetic took cues from the silver screen. In some places, proud gold lettering on spaghetti straps across skirts and the rear of evening gowns. Elsewhere, meticulous modernity mingled with Villaseñor’s retro Americana perspective and it inspired a powerful appetite for a dose of juxtaposition; leather jackets had velvet bows, an ultraviolet hoodie was worn over an extravagant crystal mini skirt. Statement outerwear brought the collection together, with oversized faux fur and quilted puffers layered over many of the looks.
The cutting-edge creative director made it clear that over the past six months he’s done nothing but double down on his desire to reinvigorate Bally’s long-faded status as a symbol of exquisite Swiss equipment. Villaseñor, on his sophomore outing, is really starting to settle in behind the big desk at Bally; now watch him deliver.
Photography courtesy of Bally.
