March 8, 2022 |
Goom Heo doesn’t make menswear for the basic bitches. No, no. Rather, the LVMH semi-finalist and Fashion East alumni uses her eponymous label to play with perplexing orientations and scintillating silhouettes. However, for AW22 Goom’s collection wasn’t made up of the same slick menswear we’ve come to expect. Instead, the 32-year-old challenged herself to step out of the box and abandon her comfort zone completely. Unsurprisingly, the result was effortlessly cool.
Dubbed Infinite Glacier, icy, cold and stiff structures infiltrated the jersey, wool and chiffon of collections past. This season’s big hitters used brand new material compositions juxtaposed with traditional couture techniques, as menswear intermingled with feminine silhouettes. There were models in mini skirts and faux fur dresses, posed in abstract positions with furry gloves concealing exposed nipples or tucked into hyperbolised pockets. But this wasn’t just the same old, somewhat outdated, men in skirts we’ve seen scattered across catwalks for decades – this time around, Goom aimed to epitomise an entirely new persona and shatter binary codes of dress.
She also played with proportions: puffer jackets came twisted and distorted revealing new design dimensions while menswear pockets were replaced with extra-large, exposed pouches in reference to 1950s women’s tailoring. Try not to blink or you’ll miss a beat. Goom Heo is going places.
Photography courtesy of Goom Heo.
