March 9, 2021 |
On the back of a buzz-worthy haute couture collection, Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry continues his twisted take on modern luxury. He says when designing, he’s taking “iconic elements from an everyday wardrobe and reinventing them from the inside out.” Many of the surrealist themes from couture carry over into ready-to-wear – gold plated body parts, exaggerated silhouettes – though, while Roseberry says couture is a platform to channel a series of characters, ready-to-wear is about “finding a cohesive language about what Schiaparelli really means as a brand.”
This collection sees the American designer – who trained under Thom Browne – question why creativity needs to be subsidised for a product to be deemed ‘commercial’. In doing so, silk bouclé tweed skirt suits are adorned with bijoux embellishments of ears and eyes, mannish denim twinsets are worn back-to-front and slick tailoring, nipped in at the waist, is paired with giant, toe adorned platforms.
Extravagance is rooted in the body itself – whether that’s a six-pack etched onto a sharply-cut overcoat, or quilted leather breasts across shirts, dresses and bags. “Elsa Schiaparelli believed that anatomy was not just a point of inspiration, but a playground, I believe that as well,” adds Roseberry. “That combination, of wit and wonder, is what defined her work – I hope it defines mine.”
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
