September 16, 2019 |
Clothes that move. They were the goal of Hussein Chalayan’s latest outing, celebrating the active part of the human body. Maybe dancing in the studio? Or feel like camping in the great outdoors? His SS20 collection was made for action. It successfully combined his abstract ideas with a sleek, ready-to-wear propositions into garments that felt wearable, even when they weren’t. The opening look was a cocoon in silver floral lamé, a morphing creature walking down the Sadler’s Wells catwalk. The second look was a variation on the same silhouette, but with an actual collar covering the face. The next was an asymmetrical dress of curves and swerves, followed by a simple spaghetti-strap midi frock. All four in the same material, but elaborating different levels of Chalayan’s creativity.
The garments often played with the notions of suspension and release, with strings intertwining and oversized hoops extending the silhouette in the hems. But then there was a fresh take on classic houndstooth suiting, as desirable as ever. A sense of the designer’s humour in his approach to avant-garde also had its moments – a tent dress which looked like it was made out of a camping chair actually made us giggle, in the best way possible. Whether he’s experimenting or just doing chic, wearable clothes, there’s a sense of refinement in everything Hussein Chalayn does. And that’s something you only get with decades of experience.
Photographs by Guillaume Roujas
