Contemporary British menswear wouldn’t be what it is without Alexander McQueen. The late designer originally started the men’s part of his brand back in the season of SS05, with a collection based on military tailoring, but embellished with elaborate shisha-inspired mirror embroidery and some pretty naughty sex appeal. This beginning was referential of the womenswear in its intricacy and sensuality, but stood for a world of its own. As the years went on, the two branches grew separate ways, whilst keeping the same roots of Britishness, craft and excellence. For SS20, the Alexander McQueen menswear collection is back to its hometown of London, and is somewhat throwing it back to those early days – the dialogue between the men’s and women’s collections is as strong as ever.
Whatever Sarah Burton touches turns into gold, and this new collection was no different. Looking at 1990s-era McQueen collections and re-interpreting references Lee himself sourced, Burton added her own signatures to the rich heritage of the house. Trompe l’oeil suiting with imagery of exploding florals went from miniature into abstract, sitting atop some of the finest tailoring we’ve seen in recent history. No one can fault the skillset and experience of McQueen tailors. Once again borrowing from the women’s side, delicate embroidery added texture to jackets, while the jewellery become precious heirlooms that will be passed down through generations, regardless of gender. Aspirational in a poetic way – now we just need to find a fabulous enough occasion to whip out these clothes. If nothing better comes up, Sunday brunch will do too. That’s how keen we are.
Photographs by Ethan James Green.
